The Grinch Who Stole Summer, or: Life is short, make the coat

Hi all!
The days are getting shorter and colder (only in Jerusalem, the rest of Israel is still like living in a toaster), and I'm sad that I didn't have a chance to "summer" this year. I usually enjoy the longest days, just being thankful for more hours of light. Last year we've spent August in Scotland where we had sunlight till 22:00 and I miss that so much. Spending August (not) studying for exams is not right.
Yesterday I had my monthly check-up and the doctor said thing are going well and I don't need to come again for 3 months! I was so stressed while waiting for my appointment, so I promised myself that if things are better than last time I'm throwing caution to the wind and starting my Cascade duffle coat RIGHT NOW. It is my dream project but I procrastinated it for so long because that are so many obstacles to overcome before construction begins.
Today I spend 2.5 hours taping and cutting the PDF after unsuccessful attempts to print it in a copy shop. Apparently in Israel they charge about 80$ for a job like this.
Next I need to cut the fabric. Being my first coat, I didn't really know what kind of fabric I should buy for the shell. I bought it in an end-of-winter sale for 2.5$ a meter, but I think it's too thin for a sturdy coat. My plan is to interface all the pieces, and cut the main pieces on a double layer. Consequently it means I need to cut the shell, than additional shell pieces, than all pieces from fusible interfacing, than the lining pieces. Of course my shell fabric is plaid, so I'll have the fun of matching plaid and deciding on location/ grain etc. At this point I'm so mentally invested in the project all of these decisions seem really important, even though I know it doesn't matter so much if the pockets are on the bias or not.
The last obstacle is the fit. I'm not making a muslin because I don't have anything in my stash in similar weight and making a muslin from a different material won't help very much. I know that this project may not work out but I'm fine with it. The shell fabric was cheap so it is as close to a test garment as possible (though I'm not cutting any corners in construction!). My Grainline size is 2 (or 2.5), and both my Lindens and Archers fit me well in this size. The only part I worry about is the fit around the shoulders as mine are broader than average. My plan is to try the shell on once I'm done before grading the seams, and if necessary release the seams a bit.
Hopefully I'll finish the cutting, fusing and basting this weekend.

Till next time,
Happy sewing!

Victoria Blazer review

Hi all!

Yesterday I took the last exam of the year, in pediatrics. I don't have the grade yet so I can't fully celebrate the end of the academic year but chances are I passed it. I past my previews two as well (internal medicine and surgery) despite not studying and having a miserable experience (at least in the surgery exam). Pediatrics is my strongest discipline so I'm letting myself indulge in not feeling guilty over not studying; guilt is such a time sucker! It's a strange position to be at, just aiming to pass the exams rather than excel them, but this year (my seventh year in university) introduced new challenges and priorities, so I'll take what I get. 

My SewJo is back so I'm enjoying that as well. My first impression of the academic year is that I barely managed to sew, but that isn't true. With the exception of sewing my wedding dress (I haven't posted it yet but I will) I also made a few utilitarian garments, mostly Linden sweatshirts by Grainline, and tried at least one new-to-me pattern - the Inari by Named . Though it isn't the end of 2016, the end of an academic year always puts me in a pensive mode so taking the time to remember the successes isn't too bad, especially among the "failures" a faced this year.

While I have many new ideas for upcoming projects I decided I'll restrict my fabric options to my stash until its volume will fit into one shelf in our closet. I'm not sure how it will go yet because I find that the more I sew from my stash the more volume it occupies, because the leftovers aren't easy to fold but harder to use. With that thought in mind I also decided not to put buttons on my Aster test garment for now, the fabric isn't pleasant to wear and I don't want to "waste" buttons on something I'm not likely to wear. As a test garment it has done its job of teaching me what I need to know in order to make my real Aster, and finishing it just for the sake of finishing doesn't feel right. 

BTW I've been mistaken for being pregnant because of the Aster picture (by a non-sewing bad-mannered person obviously). Just want to clear that up - I'm not, it's the cotton tank underneath that makes the shirt "stand".

And now for the Victoria Blazer -

I think it's the fastest from-purchase-to-garment item I have ever made. Last weekend I suddenly really wanted to make that floral cotton lycra I had in my stash into a loose fitting blazer and yesterday it has made its debut in the pediatrics exam! It was a satisfying make with good pattern-fabric compatibility. 

Worn over one of my favorite Strathconas with my pre-test face of horror

The dry facts

Pattern 

The Victoria Blazer is a half-lined loose fitting blazer by "By Hand London".

The pattern is half lined, with the body lined using the same pieces of the shell, leaving the sleeves unlined. The blazer has side-seam pockets, the collar is flat, and the lining is attached using the bagging technique. 

At first I was reluctant to sew from By Hand London. I'm more likely to purchase patterns produced by brands that make me feel like I "know" the person behind them and with whom I share values/ lifestyle/ fashion style. By Hand London is a very contemporary cool brand with very cool patterns, which is quit the opposite of my uncool self. Additionally I prefer less edited / more natural presentation of garments. The sample photos of their patterns is similar in presentation to RTW sites and that puts me off a little. however, from the (less edited) versions on-line/ Instagram, I thought the Victoria Blazer as a pattern was nice on its own so I wanted to try.  

I used the PDF version (as always). The A4 pages did not fully align, I was a bit disappointed with it, but that's normal for most PDF patterns.  

Fabric

Floral cotton-lycra for the shell, with contrast cotton-lycra for the collar and lapel. Black viscose for lining. Interfacing, and cotton scraps for the pockets. All materials are from my stash (yey!!)

 

Sizing and modifications

Based on my bust circumference (85 cm full bust, AA cup) I'm between size 2 and 4. Given my small cup size and the oversized silhouette I went for a size 2.

I couldn't rationalize the half-line approach so I cut the sleeve pieces from my lining fabric as well for a fully lined version.

I only loosely followed the instructions, as I find them too long, and I made some changes to the order of construction. I also interfaced the collar and lapels, and made a wider hem (5cm) for a shorter cut. 

Worn over my only "formal" dress, made four years ago but going strong! Went with my best friend to celebrate our 7th friendship day

Pros

I think it's a great oversized blazer perfect for air-conditioned environments. The loose fit doesn't restrict movement and I love how the floral makes it summary and "light" without being too cute. It fits a gap in my wardrobe I couldn't define, which is unexpected. I made it just for fun but I've worn it already. I feel a real bad-ass when wearing it! I went outside my comfort zone with this one and I'm happy I did. Also it's the first time I ever bagged a lining before!

Cons

It feels a bit... like "fast sewing". The lining rolls from inside of the jacket. Before closing the hem I trimmed the seam allowance and that helped a bit, but without under-stitching and without facings there is only so much one can expect from a slippery lining fabric. There were also some additional "glitches" in constructions, probably my fault, but the lapels were too long so they are caught in the hem. I'm also bothered with the flat collar. I think a collar stand and facings would make a better pattern/ garment without taking away from the overall casual feel of the blazer. Lastly, I would prefer a different method of construction such that the lining's hem would be shorter than the shell. Using the same pattern pieces means that the lining shows under the hem.

All of the above result in a faster process of construction, but I felt like it compromised the quality of the end result. 

I could probably go on and on about each and every tiny detail that makes this blazer less than perfect and criticize my skills, but hey! I'm a med-student! I pay so others can criticize me instead!

All in all despite the few details I mentioned, this is a really nice blazer and I'm happy I tried the pattern. It is a great pattern for a first lined garment and I probably would have postponed trying this new-to-me skill if not for the easy(ish) pattern. It is fun to wear and is a great alternative for the summer, after wearing my Linden sweatshirts throughout June I should have figured that out... I have the Bellatrix Blazer waiting for me once I want to try again with a more structured version.

On other news I've already completed my "real" Aster (only buttonholes and buttons left to sew... famous last words!), and it's really nice! (despite, you know, not being perfect...). More on that next time.

Enjoy the remaining of the summer!

One stitch at a time... Aster progress

Hi all!

I'm trying to keep myself together during the last weeks of the academic year while feeling rather disconnected from it all. I took the General Surgery exam today which was a complete disaster that left me physically drained, so I couldn't finish the Aster I started, but a stitch a day will eventually result in a complete garment. I often expect that surgery will make sense to me, just as sewing usually does, but the reality is different. While nothing in medicine is ever black and white multiple choice questions tend to focus on the grey area in which choosing the "correct" answer is sometimes impossible; especially if you're the kind of person that always overthink things and don't accept "raw edges" in anything in life. I'm trying to remind myself that unlike these weird and crazy exams in real life I can sometimes find a place where I belong, and manage scenarios much better... and maybe I should also work on that "raw edges" thing. Imperfection can be perfect in its own way.

Back to sewing - I bought the Aster pattern immediately upon its release, a very rare impulse purchase, because at the time I was looking for a button down (or up? can you please explain the difference?) pattern that is less boxy and casual than the Archer, and also a pattern that offers short sleeves with cuffs along with the traditional long sleeve (with a tower placket!). The only down side of the pattern is the C cup bust that it is drafted for. I usually make a Small Bust Adjustment on my tops anyway (to correct the standard B cup to my AA), but I was afraid the pattern will not suit my body type, being drafted for a more traditional woman figure than mine. 

the Small Bust Adjustment for the Aster recommends the sewer to choose the size based on the circumference of the full bust corrected to a C cup. According to this I should have made a size 4 or 6, based on my "corrected" bust measurement (I have a 85cm full bust, with 85cm upper bust. true story). After overthinking it (for months) I decided to go with a size 2 according to my true full bust measurement with 1 cm extra, and do a 0.5" SBA on each front. Despite what it appears to be, sewing isn't pure math... 

Instead of sewing a complete muslin I decided to try a quick test garment with the only piece of stash fabric I don't really like - I got it from a friend's mother, while the print is crazy in a good way, the fabric itself feels like plastic. 

Despite breaking all the sewing rules, neglecting all the notches and not pressing any of the seams, the more progress I make the more I like this shirt. I only have the hem and buttons to complete and it might end up a wearable garment!

I feel stupid for putting off this project just because I was afraid from making a mistake - cutting the wrong size and ruining good fabric. The more I read about fabric waste and the ecological impact the more guilt I feel towards my NEED to create with PHYSICAL MATERIAL. I can't live only on the virtual world and fabric is like air to me. Depriving myself of it just because I'm afraid to increase my ecological footprint is such a burden, so is avoiding new patterns just because they might not suit me. At the end re-sewing TNTs or only attempting shape-less garments that require little to no fitting is not fun. It is extremely practical, but not crafty. Working on a new pattern and not thinking too much about the end result is so liberating. Like a child crafting in the present and not worrying about the space it will occupy in the world and such.

So with that positive spirit I'll leave you with a picture of me trying on my almost-complete Aster proudly worn over my me-made pajamas (city gym shorts, and a tank from a slip pattern).

I thought of sewing another Aster (the practicality!) but after a successful challenge I would like another... Now I'm thinking of sewing the Victoria blazer using a colorful bright floral I have in my stash. What do you think?

Cropped Linden, and City Gym Shorts

Hi all!

I'm 'almost' done with the first year of clinical rotations, "only" two exams left! Hopefully I'll pass and then have some time to relax. This year has been something... else. I think I reached my physical limits and I'm paying a price for ignoring health-related issues. In order to remedy this and hopefully get back to my former healthier self I'm slowing things down and trying to rest as much as possible (while hopefully still passing the exams!).

during the past few months I didn't have the energy, both physical energy and mental energy, to sew complicated (or even easy-but-long) projects, but I did manage to finish a couple of much needed tshirts to wear on weekends, a much needed addition to my wardrobe as I lack casual and comfortable clothes to wear during my free time, and often find myself wearing very inappropriate sweatpants paired with one of D's tshirts around the house. There's nothing wrongs with it of course, and I probably will keep this habit sometimes but I rather have more options.

I made two tops, combining dark blue and black fabric with a lot of drape (I don't know the fiber contents).

For the tshirts I used the the short-sleeved version of the Linden sweatshirt from Grainline, this version features elbow length sleeves, a length I find flattering, with a cropped hem. While the hem is too short for some of my pants it is the perfect length to wear with my Moss skirts, and with the newest addition to my wardrobe - a pair of City Gym Shorts by Purl Soho in purple denim.

To make the shorts more appropriate to wear outside I lengthened the inseam (4 cm more of less), straightened the side seams, and drafted pockets that are big enough to hold my phone and keys when I go out on a walk. I also reduced the length (circumference) of the waistline to make them less sporty and more like regular shorts. On the next version I'll try to add darts, and hopefully draft my way to the perfect-yet-comfortable shorts I want so much. I used to go out on walks pretty often to clear my mind and motivate me to study, a hobby I neglected recently because I felt to lousy and week to exercise. Now that I'm getting my strength back I started walking again and this shorts are almost perfect. My only complaint is that the stretch denim feels a bit plastic-y against the skin.

Despite the minor complaints I enjoyed these two garments so much that I finally was motivated enough to tape and cut the Aster shirt from Colette! I'm halfway through my muslin using a really crazy fabric, and I think I would like to find a way to hack this shirt into a jumpsuit. Everybody lookS so comfortable wearing a jumpsuit, I want one as well to test if this jumpsuit party really is worth it ;)

Till next time,

Be well and enjoy sewing!

Wyome Jeans - FAIL

Hi all!

The weather has been warmer for a while, so I spent some time thinking about the gaps in my warm-weather wardrobe and how I would like to manage my sewing for the next few months.

One garment I wanted to make was a pair of boyfriend-style jeans. I prefer wearing loose fitting clothes, especially in warmer weather, and I had blue medium-weight denim with some stretch in my stash that was suitable for this project.

Based on my positive experience with the Alexandria pattern by Named (here and here and I have another unblogged version) I got curious and wanted to try the Wyome pattern. When I started this project (months ago) Morgan from Closet Case Files wasn't out yet, and while a knew that one of these days someone will release a modern boyfriend jeans pattern I couldn't wait. So off I went with the Wyome, knowing it will not be easy based on the way I thought the jeans were drafted. 

I tried to find as many posts/ instagram/ pinterest clues as to how exactly Wyome fits, as I think the description is very different from the pattern itself. First, it was obvious that the pattern as drafted was not so loose fitting as the photos on the model could suggest. Second, the waist is relatively high while in my imagination boyfriend jeans are suppose to have a lower waist.

Based on what I read I decided to start with size 40, at least two sizes larger than what my measurements would suggest (my hips are 89-90 cm circumference, putting my between 34 and 36). 

Based on the first muslin I shortened the front crotch by 4 cm, and then went ahead with a second muslin that fitted more or less as I wanted. However what I failed to take into account is the stretch in the denim I wanted to use - in the final jeans I had to take about 8 cm at the waist, as a result I had to eliminate the 5th pocket and the size of the side pockets was reduced considerably. Another problem I faced was the back crotch, that was not deep (=curvy) enough resulting in some weird wrinkles at the back. I tried as much as possible to change it, but there is only so much one can do with an almost-complete pair of jeans. 

Bottom line - I didn't finish them, and probably never will. 

I put them in my UFO/WIP box, and am trying to figure out my lessons from this project. 

I could be really harsh on myself and say I wasted good fabric on something that had very little chance to succeed (as I knew it won't be easy to get the fit I wanted) but I think wasting good fabric (and time! and money in material!) on failed projects is just part of the process. I still want boyfriend jeans though! When Heather released the Morgan pattern I thought to give it a go, but judging from the photos this pattern is not so loose fitting as drafted, so I don't think it will be the answer to my problem. I do have a pair of RTW jeans I like so I think I can copy them to get the fit I want. I have another very old pair that is now falling apart that I would like to recreate. I guess it shouldn't be more difficult than starting with a new pattern.

The problem is I feel I need a relatively quick and successful project to lift my sewing spirits. My machines were out of order for a while now (I won't elaborate but my zipper sole took the hit during the Wyome battle and both my sewing machine and overlocker had to be taken to the repair shop...) and I had what felt as a long line of not-so-successful-and-not-so-fun projects. After the wedding dress, Wyome and Inari (that I'm still not sure about) I want something interesting that will produce a successful yet fun sewing experience. I cut a few quick knit projects but as the overlocker is still in the shop I need to tackle some woven! 

Maybe it's about time I'll tape and try the Aster from Colette! I've been fantasizing on this pattern ever since it was released but as I've never made a pattern from Colette before I don't know what to expect (with the exception of a Small Bust Adjustment).  

Until I make up my mind, I'll leave you with two current photos of my Inari in action. While I'm still undecided about the cocoon shape, I'm positive that the armscye is too low to allow enough movements. If I choose to make it again, I'll adjust the sleeves based on the Scout pattern that fits me better (it isn't a straight forward adjustment because the patterns are drafted differently but it can be done). I wore the dress to another wedding a week ago. It's my only summer dress so while not perfect it is the best I currently have. Something to consider in the future - I think I'm at the point of "too much cake, not enough frosting". How would have thought it was even possible? 

Inari Tdress / Named

A few days ago I had an episode of anaphylaxis, a severe allergic reaction to something. I have about two episodes a years, around this time when all the flowers are blooming and most allergic people go around glued to tissue and antihistamines. Despite the fact I'm used to it by now, whenever it happens and I need to inject myself with epipen I get puzzeled and confused. I know it takes me four days of rest until I recuperate from anaphylaxis so I try to convince myself it isn't really happening. Well - it happened, and as always it happened late at night while I was alone.

I spent the following two days in bed feeling sorry for myself with only short breaks from sleeping. By the end of the second day I felt I had to do something productive. I have the Wyome pattern by Named on the list, and have already made the first muslin, but making a second muslin wasn't really appealing to me at that point. I wanted immediate satisfaction!

So I took out the fabric I kept for the Inari dress and started cutting it.

The Inari pattern by Named is well documented and very popular, and initially I thought the coccun shape will not suit my figure. I'm flat chested and my legs are not my best feature, so on paper this should be the worst choice for me. But I received printed cotton from a friend's mother and thought the Inari was the best pattern to showcase the unique print. Also I notice my wardrobe lacks "evening wear", something more special than jeans and a button-up, but not too dressy. Something I can reach for when we go out for coffee and such. At the same time I dislike fitted garments, especially when dinner is involved, so the shape of this dress is perfect for such a wardeobe gap.

I muslined the pattern a few weeks ago just so I can be sure of the size. I went with 36 despite my flat chest and thought the size fitted me well. For this version I haven't adjusted the pattern and it fits well as is, but for future versions I'll go down a size. Initially I thought a small bust adjustment will do the trick, but after wearing the dress during a hike I understand the dress is overall too big.

 This is is the second pattern I make by Named and again I think it's a great success! I still haven't decide about the shape, though. I like it but I'm afraid people will think I'm hiding a bump... We'll see if I reach for this dress in the future, and if so, if I like the way I feel while wearing it.

When assembling the PDF I find that not all lines meet, but when assembling the dress itself all notches correspond well to one another. Another small complaint I have is that the pattern pieces themselves hold very little information regarding how many to cut for each version, and even the foldlines aren't marked. I would appreciate more information on the pattern pieces so I wouldn't have to look at the instructions so often.

On the other hand, I love the way this pattern comes together. Unlike other companies that leave the decision regarding seam finishes to the seamstress, Named instruct you when to finish the seams resulting in a very neat finish. I followed their instructions and used my serger to finish the seams. While I usually prefer French seams on woven garments, I love how flat and simple open serged edges are. One reason to putting off this project was that I couldn't decide whether I wanted to try French seams or just go with the instructions. At the end despite using a non-matching thread (I only have 3 colors and threading my serger with black wasn't going to happen that day) I like the neat result.

For the neckline I used facing rather than binding. The pattern has both options, but I was intrigued to see how well a facing would behave. I haven't installed a facing in a long time and wandered if I could achieve a better looking facing now that I notice things like grainlines, notches and understitching...

I'm happy to report the facing behaves well, despite some miss-handling on my part (I didn't fused the facing, mostly because I hate fusible interfacing, and I thought the cotton can hold the shape well).

I've only worn this dress ones, because I intend to wear it to my cousin's wedding two weeks from now, and I enjoyed the overall feel. Again my only concerns are with size being too big and the lack of shaping around the waist. I know it's a very popular silhouette but I don't have the best body image, and rally afraid someone will ask me if I'm pregnant.

It has just occurred to me that maybe on other parts of the world people are less up front with this line of questioning? In Israel people are known to be really nosy, especially with young couples. I'm very conscience of my body and so I can easily get offended when someone stares at the wrong parts. Let's see if I follow through with the plan and actually wear it to the wedding, or look for a last minute replacement (or a belt!)

What do you think? Do you wear cocoon style garments or so you think this shape should be used solely for maternity wear?

Please tell me you would never ask a woman if she's pregnant because of what she wears!

2016 reSEWlutions

Hi all!
I know, we are two months into 2016, but during January I had the wedding on my mind so I postponed my new year resolutions till I get back to a regular routine. Considering I've just started the last week of the internal medicine rotation my routine is as normal as can be. The rotation in this department is considered the most demanding rotation of the year, and getting married mid-rotation had proven more difficult than I imagined. I'm happy that life is about to get less complicated starting next week, so I think it's time to get my reSEWlutions in order.

Since I started clinical rotations two months ago I noticed how I have become more attentive to what I wear, as well as what other students around me wear. I think we all try to be comfortable while still looking tidy and somewhat "grown-up". It's the first time I notice how much affected by fashion trends we all are. So my first reSEWlution for 2016 is to challenge my self with my makes rather than go for what mimics RTW choices. It may sound obvious, a lot of us sew in order to express ourselves and make unique garments, but lately I notice that I'm drawn to the patterns and sillahouettes that resemble what I'd find in chainstores. There is nothing wrong with this kind of inspiration of course, but it is less interesting to make something I could buy. At the same time I notice that I get the most complements over garments that resemble the latest trends in RTW. I like to talk about clothes and obviously don't mind the complements, but it's less interesting to talk about something that looks exactly like what I would find in the nearest H&M. I hope that in 2016 I'll make clothes that are more interesting to me and less " trendy".

Colette book club

I started to read the previous book from the book club and was on schedule to join the discussion, but unfortunately my Kindle screen broke and I missed the deadline. I finished the book two days ago and already started the next one on the list. I would like to join the discussion on this one, and stick with the routine they set. It's so nice to have someone else find all the good sewing-related books!

Make sure I stash enough notions

While I have a lot of fabric, I never seem to have enough thread / buttons / fusible making it impossible to spontaneously start my next project. This year I'll try to stash more notions so missing material won't prevent me from conquering the next project.

Commit to organise the stash

At this point I understand that stash organisation is not a one-time thing. Even when I find my system I will still have to rearrange it whenever I take a piece out, or add some scraps in (or new pieces of fabric!). I realise that the more I use up stash the bigger it gets, because the scraps take up so much space... I recently arranged all the fabric in boxes and would like to actively keep it organised. Additionally I would like to frequently take stock and get rid of scraps more often.

Invest in equipment that will make sewing woven material easier

I keep avoiding the woven fabric in my stash because pressing sleeves to achieve a professional look is difficult with my current set up. It never bothered me before, but the more experience I have the more attentive I become towards pressing and seam finish. I've been telling myself I should get a sleeve ham for a few years now, so 2016 is the year I invest in a few pressing tools!

That's it for now, let's hope 2016 will be full of fun, health and positivity!

Alexandria Peg Trousers / Named - in velvet

Hi all!

Here's to a new experience - I'm writing this post on my phone! My laptop battery is empty and there are no suitable plugs in this classroom. 

I'm still waiting for our wedding pictures to arrive, so I can write a proper wedding dress post (or posts..) without waiting forever for the big reveal, but I'm very happy to inform I finished it on time! Truth be told, a friend had to cut the hem a few hours before the wedding while I was working on shortening D's button down shirt, but everything worked out perfectly and I was happy and comfortable in my hand made outfit.

No more than two days following the wedding I started binge-sewing all the knits that were waiting in my stash. The first project was this pair of Alexandria peg trousers. I bought this weird dotted light blue velvet fabric while fabric-shopping for the wedding outfit (along with the scuba knit I made into a Linden before starting with the dress), and cut them before the wedding.  After making my first Alexandria I knew I wanted more pairs from this pattern, but being rather traditional with my pants choices I didn't want to try a patterned fabric. When I saw the velvet I thought it could be a nice opportunity to try a new-to-me fabric with the potential of creating something different and interesting to beef up my lounge-wear / weekend wardrobe.

Sewing this fabric was a bit tricky partially due to the stretch and drape that were difficult to control but mostly because the layers of the velvet kept shifting under the machine.

While very soft  and stretchy, the fabric is quite thick and warm. The thickness means there's  more fabric around the hips / waist area than I would have liked, and in retrospect I should have used thinner fabric for the pockets and maybe even for the waistband. 

Unlike my previous version, due to the fabric's characteristics (as well as my general hastiness) the front pleats are not as tidy as should be. The outcome is looks like gathering rather than the neat two pleats the pattern calls for, although I didn't (intentionally) gathered the waistband.

Despite all the mishaps I like them more than I have imagined I would. These pants are shiny, drape well, fun and comfortable, and are something I imagine would be appropriate for a Disco party. Other people's opinions were less supportive - my cousins said the silhouette is awesome ( thanks Named!) but they would look better in a different fabric. I realize wearing shiny velvet pants is not trendy (right now) but I'm happy with the less-obvious choice of fabric. I will probably make this pattern again, but I would like to continue to explore the possibilities it holds without sticking with the trendy/ traditional/ RTW inspired fabric choices this pattern suits for.

I first wore them to my grandmother's 85th birthday, which was a very casual weekend event, along with my first Linden (unblogged) and Birkenstock clogs. Time will tell if the outside criticism will change my mind, or rather - I'll continue to enjoy them and everyone will follow.

what do you think? To much? Or just right?

Notes:
Like the previous version, I made a straight size 36 (my hips are ~88 but I prefer my clothes looser than the average person, I think). I made no changes to the pattern other than omitting the drawstring at the waist (because I don't have one currently... I think It's a great addition and will probably add some once I get the chance to buy it).
Due to the 4-way stretch, I think I hemmed them using a dipper hem. the weight of the fabric causes the legs to twist some time, causing the diagonal lines in the pictures.
I didn't interface anything (because I'm lazy) or pressed any of the seams (told you I was binge-sewing...!) resulting in some back-pockets floppiness I actually quite like.
This version hits just below my navel, while the previous (woven) version seats lower at the waist.

Year In Review - 2015

On the days leading to January 1st 2016 I looked back at 2015 and at first judged it as a VERY unsuccessful and unproductive year. It wasn't one of the best years of my life. I spent a lot of time and energy trying to finish the experimental stage of my pHD, and way too much time was spent worrying about the future. I worry too much, which never really helps but I still find it difficult to let go.

I don't know why I didn't realized it at first, but despite my subjective feelings, 2015 was indeed quite productive both in sewing and in real-life.

KonMary 

I started the KonMary project during April, but I'm not yet done with it. I'm slowly collecting shoe-boxes from everyone I know, and hopefully by the end of 2016 I'll be done. Despite the slow-going process the closet has been clean and tidy since April, which makes dressing up in the morning way more fun.
 I never thought that if I throw out everything I dislike I may end up with too little, but apparently this could happen. During the first months after I threw out most of the items I didn't like I had very little left to wear. I don't miss the clothes I tossed (even not the hand-made ones that were a bit more difficult to give away), on the contrary I really enjoyed the free space in the closet, but since I love sewing and I needed more garments, the space is filling up quite fast. 

Lounge Wear 

On May I pledged to wear a me-made lounge garment twice a week.
This didn't work out quite well, as at that point I only had a few garments for lounging/ walking/ dancing/ sewing (please tell me I'm not the only one who can't sew with jeans), some were store-bought. Ever since May, I tried to find fabric and patterns to beef up my lounge wardrobe. I'm a sensitive person and very hyperactive so the moment I come home from work I immediately change into the most comfortable clothes I can find. Additionally you will never see me wearing anything restricting during weekends, nothing with zippers/ buttons, and usually not anything from a woven fabric unless it has a lot of ease. 

Case in point, this is what I wore to dinner on Friday:
 

 My father was not too pleased with my outfit... I quite tastelessly paired the blue floral Linden with the black and white Go-To knit pants, but let me tell you - it felt great! Needless to say I need a few more options in my "easywear" wardrobe.


New-to-me patterns

This year I enjoyed sewing more patterns than before. The Linden by Grainline is my current favorite; after hacking the Strathcona into a raglan I finally bought the Linden and immediately fell in love with the loose fit, but yet the body-conscious sillhouette. 

 
 Above is my third Linden. Again, presenting one of my horrible lounge pants. 



 And again a Linden, this time with a Moss skirt. 


 The Morris blazer on the above pictures wins the "most surprising make of 2015". I had the fabric in my stash for a year or so, it was bought with the Lady Skater dress in mind but I don't wear dresses so often and I already have two in a similar fabric (different color) so it waited in my stash. After the first Morris, I thought this heavy jersey fabric can make a cozy and "spicy" blazer and I'm happy with the result! 

I enjoyed trying out new patterns and indie designers, and I hope I'll continue to explore new shapes and silhouettes in 2016 as well.

I hope your 2016 is off to a good start! The first week of 2016 was also the first week of my internal medicine rotation, so I'm still socked and tired from the change in atmosphere and routine but I hope I'll enjoy the rest of this interesting (yet very demanding) rotation. An update on the wedding outfit will follow, I'm happy to say I'm sort of on schedule and will probably have a white thingy to wear by the beginning of February so things aren't too bad on that front. 

Have a great week!

Wedding dress #1 (and the Linden I made while procrastinating)

Hi all!

I'm glad to report that the pre-clinical-rotations-two-months-of-frontal-lectures-hell is behind me! I past the exam and my body (and mind) are slowly recovering. Sitting in class all day IS NOT FOR ME and I'm glad I'll never have to go through this again in my life.

As I mentioned before, we are getting married in the beginning of February. We've been living together for several very happy years, so getting married and formalizing our relationship was not a surprising step for anyone. Therefor I naively thought that everyone will accept our opinions regarding the ceremony itself, and will let us hold it in a way that suits our lifestyle. I was wrong... Weddings in Israel are big (and expensive), the stadard is an evening wedding with dinner and a dance party (DJ included), in which guests are expected to give money as a present, to cover the costs of the party. Needless to say, this kind of celebration isn't really for me... but as the wedding ceremony is also a gift we give the families, we are doing what we are asked to do, while trying to fit it into our lifestyle as much as possible. 

Having a "standard wedding" is difficult for me as my mother died when I was young, and nothing can make up for the fact my only wish for this happy occasion would be that she could witness it. therefore I tried as much as I could to push aside the traditions, the "should" and the "proper", and make this night about love and happiness in a less formal way. Unfortunately, as I wrote above, not all of my wishes were granted and for the past weeks I was just sad about this entire thing. 

I know it makes very little sense, as I get to spend everyday with the love of my life, and one night in which I put other people's wills above mine will not change it. But I still struggle with letting go of the things that will not be as I wish, despite knowing I'll enjoy this night no matter what.

Anyway, the wedding dress and all that involves my appearance is one place were I can do whatever I want (within reason). The process of designing my outfit started with deciding about several topics:

Do I want to make my own dress, rent it, or buy it?

Well, that was the easiest... I think that making my own dress will not only save money but will allow my to wear (almost) exactly what I have in mind. It will also spare me long hours of looking for an RTW dress, fitting sessions etc. Most importantly, the making of a garment is part of the experience in wearing it. I think I'll feel more "me" in a garment I spent time working on.  

How much money am I willing to invest? Do I want to save money, or try working with high-end material?

I want to feel special and beautiful in my wedding dress (aren't we all...?), and it shouldn't look cheap. At the same time, this is a one-night garment, so I didn't want to invest a lot of money in fabric. I prefer to invest money on fabric for garments I'll wear more (such as high quality denim, that I already asked for my birthday). 

How much time do I want to invest in this project?

Nowadays sewing knits is all I want. The speedy work on the overlocker and the cozy result excite me. I have plenty of projects on my winter sewing list, and since winter-wear is my favorite to sew (and I would also like to sew a cascade coat this year), I don't want to spend all my free time on the wedding dress. Therefore, while I think dresses with lots of bead work and hand-sewn lace are amazing, it is probably not the project for me.  

What is the general style I'm going for? 

There are probably one-million dresses I would enjoy wearing. The waiting gown from Sex and the City would probably be my top choice as an inspiration, while the Vera Wand dress from Brides Wars is another one I always liked. However while I like this aesthetic I probably won't feel comfortable wearing such a big dress to this particular evening, so I started a pinterest board and realized I wanted something with less volume and more coverage. 

At the end (of admittedly a very short search session) I decided to use the two-piece outfit from Rue De Seine as the inspiration (it's at the bottom of the board). 

After a few weeks of procrastination I finely went fabric shopping with a friend. For the top I decided to use the snowball dress by Waffle patterns, the base layer would be made of cotton-sateen in off-white, and the top either from lace we bought or from a lace shirt I already have (depending on the amount of lace needed). The skirt is "just" a full circle skirt cinched at the waist, made out of three layers of white chiffon and one layer of lining in cream sateen. 

I like the texture and pattern on the shirt I have so I hope I can use it for the dress (also, I got the shirt from my father's wife, and it feels special to integrate it into the dress)

 

Before we went fabric shopping, D jokingly said I can buy as much fabric as I'd like, but he will lock all my non-wedding-related fabric until I finish the dress, as I have no plan B and the wedding is getting closer (I don't really have time working on the dress during the week, and we still have to make all the decorations, since no made-in-China-by-children decorations will be part of our wedding...). Obviously Linden sweatshirts are made faster than the time it takes to persuade me to confront 20 meters of white slippery fabric, so this one was made immediately:

 

(Worn here with my Go-To Knit Pants. I know I promised a review but I'm still not sure what I think of this pattern). This is my 4th Linden, this one is made from Scuba knit I bought along with the aforementioned ridiculous amount of white fabric, and put immediately into good use. I made straight size 2 based on my measurements, and surprisingly my broad shoulders don't need extra room. Please note: Linden comes with 1/4" seam allowance!

After finishing my Linden I was ready to conquer the piles of white fabric, which meant I had a "white Christmas" after all! The results of this first sewing session will follow shortly. 

Till then, Happy Christmas and may you all have a fabulous end to 2015!

   

 

Alexandria Peg Trousers by Named

Hi All!

Med-school started four weeks ago, and it is not as bad as I anticipated. We had the first test two weeks ago and it went well, despite the fact I spent the last weeks on-and-off sick. I hope things will slowly settle into a routine that will allow me to study, work, sew, run, and spend time with my friends and family. Actually today was the first time I ran this week, as I spent most of it fighting a cold - and I had so much fun!

I'm looking for patterns and ideas for my light workout / lounge wear wardrobe. In the weekend before med-school started, instead of finishing off my responsibilities to work, I made up the Alexandria Peg Trousers by Named. This was my first time sewing with a Named pattern, and judging by the success of this garment - it won't be the last time I buy a pattern from them. I was looking for a trousers pattern for a woven fabric that is casual and comfortable. I like the general aesthetic of the Alexandria, but I didn't know if it could work with my body type - the model in the pictures is stick thin, and I was afraid the pleats won't do me any good. However despite my concerns I couldn't let go of this pattern and eventually bought it and made it up immediately!

I'm SO happy with this make! I have no idea what fabric I used - I just bought something black and thin with good drape. The fabric is soft to the touch, and the trousers are so comfortable! I even wore them for a short hike we took:

I wore them with my hemlock tee, and my UV protection sleeves. Black is very difficult to photograph, I'm sorry for the lack of details, but hey - you get a good idea of the view from the Jerusalem mountains :)

As it's the first time I sew with a Named pattern, I was a bit worried about the fit. Based on my hip measurement (about 90 cm) I was between 34 and 36, but I do have a very full seat so I sized up and after a quick muslin decided I was good to go. I'm happy with the fit of the trousers, they are loose fitting but the length and the tapering of the pant leg make them more appropriate for casual wear.

The instructions are great, and sewing was fun and smooth. The only part I had difficulty with was pressing the seam allowance of the pockets. The pockets are curved, so I had to fight with the iron. Next time I'll make a cardboard template I can use as a guide.

I do need another one of these in my wardrobe, possibly something a bit warmer as the weather here is getting colder. I have a light-grey flannel that may be a good candidate for my next attempt... although I doubt I can beat the success of these trousers - I wear them all the time and I think they are one of my favorite makes of all times!

In addition to having so much fun with this pattern, I'm also very happy I've discovered a "new to me" indie sewing company. I already have some of their patterns on my wishlist, one of them is the Rene Maxi Skirt pattern, to be used for my wedding skirt.

Have you sewn with Named before? I'm looking for information regarding the Wyome jeans pattern, I would like to try it as my next Named advernture...

Difficult days in Jerusalem

Hi all,

Med-school started again 4 days ago, it is not as bad as I anticipated, but I find it difficult to juggle my research work and med-school responsibilities. I'm sure I'll settle back into a routine in a few weeks, probably things will calm down on the school-front once I'm done with the first exam (10 days from now).

Unfortunately things around here are once again unstable. in the past two weeks we experienced daily terror attacks around the city (mostly stabbing, but there were shootings as well), meaning leaving the house is a bit dangerous, and going to center city is not an option. Public transportation is also less-safe so we need to juggle, be careful, and be at home/university and off the streets as much as possible. 

You can imagine how difficult it is... I'm still going to dance class twice a week, and I'm getting my sewing mojo back (I hope) but it is still very difficult. 

During the writing of this post, there was another terror attack in the central bus station (a few kilometers from our house). The rule is "if you hear one ambulance, it's fine. If you hear three - it's a terror attack.  

I guess I'm a "stress organizer" because the stress from the upcoming academic year along with the general stress we currently experience, pushed me to continue with the KonMary project, this time organizing my stash. While I did the "throwing out" part in April, the current organization system was not working.

 

Initially keeping my fabric rolled was a good system, but with time it got messy and the scraps and leftovers overshadowed the material I'm more likely to work with on a daily basis. So instead, I chose to use boxes and fold the material the same way I fold my clothes. I still don't have enough cardboard boxes, so I'm only half-way through. I hope I can find enough in the next couple of days, so I can continue with it during the weekend.


To raise my spirits and make me feel as if I was "getting things done" I tried to finish one UFO: the Morris blazer was the first!

 I started it a long time ago (immediately after the pattern was released), but my overlocker had some problems and had to be fixed, so it took me this long to finish it. (Worn over an Archer shirt)

In addition I made a second version of the Morris blazer (which I wore for the first day of school over my beloved Strathcona). As I can't go buy fabric or notions for projects, I'm trying to make things for which I have everything already in the stash. The Morris blazer needs no notions, so it's an easy choice:

Unfortunately I have some issues with the overlocker again. I'll try to fix it myself, but if not I'll have to wait until things calm down here, because the Bernina shop is located in central Jerusalem, and I can't go there right now...

Both blazers are size 2, graded to 4 in the shoulders. I have access fabric around the chest, so I think next time I'll grade the shoulders back to 2, or do a small bust adjustment (I did it on the Scout, on which I had the same problem with the fabric and it helped). Anyway until I find a solution to the overlocker problem, I'll have to stick with wovens.

What should I do next, another Archer perhaps? finally try the Aster pattern from colette? 

I'll keep writing about my makes, and continue with updates on the situation from our tiny spot in the middle east. I do hope that this stinky situation will be over soon.

On fall/winter wardrobe (that should include a wedding dress) and going back to med-school

Hi all!

It's always so difficult to start a new post after not writing here for so long.
In the past few months I've been mostly working on projects for our home, continuing with my Konmary project and trying to organize our place in a way that will help me feel comfortable and happy during the the next year of med-school. Additionally, I had to finish all experiments for the PHD, and then we took off to Scotland where we traveled for a month. I was, and in many ways still am, exhausted.

I'm studying towards an MD/PHD degree, so in two weeks time I'll be back in med-school after 3 years of research. I don't have the right words to express how it makes me feel. I want to be a doctor-researcher, but my years in pre-med were a total misery. I was alone, and lonely, in a new city. I was cold most of the time, I felt I didn't belong and that I wasn't good enough. I had very little guidance and I was lost. 6 years have past since this first week in pre-med, and I'm in a totally different place in life now. I'm in a stable relationship (that we will formalize this winter!), I have my PHD project that I love, and most importantly I have learned that some of the difficult things I had to cope with in life, were not things I deserved and where not my fault. The thing is - It's very difficult to change our habits, and learn to expect different things from the future despite a certain past. Specifically I find it difficult to imagine having a good time next year, as my memories are based on past experience that was so bad.

It is very difficult to be outside looking in, and as the sewing community is indeed a place in which I feel belong, I would like to participate! However, as this blog is public, and as pictures from here are quite up the "google image" search of my name (found out the bad way), I never know how personal I would like this place to be.

HOWEVER after reading this post from A Stitching odyssey I thought there was no way I'm keeping my radio silence. If they can write so openly about such a life-changing journey, I can be open about my fear from the near future :)

I'm trying to come up with a list of garments I would like to sew and wear in the upcoming months. It will take me a few more hours to finalize the list and understand what patterns / materials I need to gather, and I'll keep you posted!

I'll leave you with a picture of my new, finished Morris blazer! worn over an Archer shirt, with my "proper" black denim (RTW). I bought this pattern immediately upon its release (that never happens...) but due to some overlocker issues I just finished it yesterday!

On accomplishments and judgment against them

Some days I know who I am, some days I think I have no clue. 

Some days I am confident with my life choices while on other days criticism really hurts me. 

We had a long weekend, and I wanted to deep-clean the apartment. I LOVE our apartment, it's the first place in my adult life I call HOME. I want to spend time (and money) making it prettier and more "us". Rented apartments in Israel are usually kept in a bad condition. Despite the (very) high prices it's not uncommon to have lousy and old facilities. When we moved in two years ago we cleaned the place thoroughly, painted the walls, hung shelves etc, but we didn't do much with the bathroom since it was all too much and we didn't want to start painting both walls and ceiling.

It was fine for two years, but after the winter the bathroom needed a face-lift. So I bought hydrogen peroxide (diluted it to 3%) to get rid of the mold, and gave the washing machine its annual treatment with vinegar and baking soda. As it wasn't enough, I also applied new grout on the bathroom floor.

I felt like a super-hero!

All happy and stinky I went to a family dinner, and proudly shared my afternoon act of magic. The first reaction was "oh, you have too much free time!", followed by another key line  "but it's a rented apartment, why would you go through all the trouble?"

This reaction crushed me. MY HOME is so important to me. Coming back from work to a place I can call HOME is a feeling nothing can replace. having a place that I love, knowing that most of it is my own creation, this is something I care so much for. Being surrounded by items that spark joy is precious. And having it all dismissed by someone implying my time is better spent doing other things is hurtful.

I didn't know what to do, so I went back HOME and went all out: painted the bathroom (walls and ceiling! primer and paint!), scrubbed the ceramic with vinegar to get rid of all the limescale, took the sinks apart to clean the pipes, removed the carpet from the bedroom floor (my landlord approved) and more. The bathroom looks amazing, and three days from now I'll take myself on a date to the flee market to find accessories. Every shower I now take is different and refreshing. And I have myself to thank for it.

But I'm still sad.  I choose to live a different life. I have a "normal" day-job I will not replace for anything in the world, I think what I do is important. But at the same time I feel that sewing my own clothes, using ecological cleaning supplies, recycling and reusing is my way of living a balanced life, feeling that I'm a positive force in the world, that I do more good than bad. I also choose to spend my (hard-earned) money on dance classes, trips, fabric and craft supplies. Should I be ashamed?

When somebody dismisses my choices, saying I'm wasting my time with all this, there still is a little voice in my head thinking that he might be right.

Should I do something else? Be somebody else? Am I a young idealist that still hasn't grown out of it? (I'm 27, will I change?)

and most importantly - am I alone with my point of view on life?

Did anyone ever insulted you, laughed at you for sewing and DIYing?  How should I react if/when it happens again?

 

Me Made May - a celebration of me-mades (?)

I am one of these people who anticipate May since March. For the past few years May was a month for celebrating all the self made garments and reflecting on the sewing process in the year that passed. May is also the month during which blogs discuss broader aspects of sewing rather than publishing only posts with new finished projects. So this year I anticipated reading and watching pictures capturing the dynamic aspects of clothes and how they work in real-life, outside the "finished garment" posts. I anticipated reading posts about the successes and failures in sewing, and how these experiences affect the "to-sew" lists. 

I was a bit disappointing reading that many of the big bloggers decided to ditch this experience. I know the sewing community develops over time and it is true that many of us wear our me-mades on a daily basis anyway. But circumscribing me-mades to finished-garment posts takes the point out of making and writing about our sewing, and makes sewing similar to RTW where the only job a garment has is to look good and picture-ready.

The lack of documentation in MMM15 reflects a bigger change in sewing blogs over the past two years - the easier patterns are to sew, and the greater frequency with which patterns are released makes sewing more like fast fashion. Maddie posted her take on that exactly one yer ago, during May. This change is also apparent in the photo shoots presenting finished garments - sewing photography becomes as important as sewing itself. Much like in RTW.

The growing sewing community is amazing, and it is because of these changes that we are able to sew most of our clothes. The quality and detailed information that comes with the new patterns helps us all conquer sewing garments we would otherwise skip such as jeans. But these changes could also make us less aware of the actual job our me-mades have in the real world, which is to be comfortable and pretty outside the settings of the photo-shoots and blog posts.

I wish that while the community continues to grow and new patterns are released, we will remember to reflect on the process more often and continue the discussion over garments long after they were first photographed.

Me Made May 2015 - 2nd week

Hi all!

I was better at documenting my outfits this week, and since I like reading round up posts I thought I'll contribute with my own. I think when all results are shown together trends are starting to emerge from the data. If it works for day-job science it could work for hobby-science as well, so here we go:

 I made the above top a week ago, the sleeves are sewn front-to-back but I don't really mind. This is a Scout tee from grainline studio, but I altered the side seams for a more fitted silhouette. I also did a small-bust-adjustment, this pattern is drafted for a B cup and I'm AA so it was necessary. Since I'm as flat as a board I have no trouble putting it on, even in a woven fabric. worn here with my worn-out RTW  jeans and fitflops. From the mess behind me it appears it was either early in the morning or late at night. The past week was busy and passed real fast, especially since I was still tired from the work-trip the week before. 

 Above is my self-drafted striped tshirt, worn last Thursday. It was still cold so I wore an RTW jacket (that I bought 11 years ago in GAP during my first visit to NYC) and black RTW loose fitting jeans (bought 6 years ago in Old Navy, NYC). 

It was my first attempt with a long-sleeved variation of the pattern. The sleeves are a bit wide but I like the fabric so I wear it a lot. 

Friday, another Scout tee in viscose and the same RTW black jeans. All seams are french seams as I always do with wovens, but since the fabric on this one is a bit sheer I also faced all hems with self bias binding (sleeve hems included). I think I'll continue with faced hems on wovens, it's nice that the pattern is very simple but I can play with the details and finishes. 

Saturday, another Scout tee and blue Ultimate Trousers. I wore the pants before hemming to check the fit and at the end of the day lowered the front waistline in about an inch, as I felt as if it was cutting my circulation when I sat. The fabric has NO give and I'm used to more ease in my clothes so it's a change. I can't do a split in those pants... but apparently I can easily climb a ladder as evidenced by our successful mulberries picking day. I'll save the splits for another pair of pants.

I'm still experimenting with the pattern and I have a way to go, but this is a (heavily) modified size 10. I narrowed the side seams to size 8 and then shaved the side curves off. I always thought I was a pear shape but I guess I'm not. I also used a smaller seam allowance at the side seams at the waist, but took a wedge off the center back. I'm happy with the fit of those, but would like to have a more flared leg opening on my next version. Also this pair has an exposed metal zipper instead of the recommended hidden zipper. 

Sunday, at the ugly lab environment. (Work week in Israel is Sunday-Thursday, don't mistake me for a workaholic). 

My self drafted knit top, the same pattern used for the striped tshirt from Thursday, crop variation. One of my favorite garments, worn over an RTW black tank and RTW jeans. This crop top was one of my first makes on the overlocker about a year ago, and I wish I had more of this fabric so I could make a longer version as well. The fabric is so soft and easy to wear on hot summer days, and to my eyes the shibori looks like clouds, making me feel free and energetic. 

5 minutes after arriving home this is what I looked like:

 I didn't forget the lounge wear part of my pledge. I change clothes the minute I get back home, this time I jumped into my red fleece pants. I like them a lot and wear them during the winter all the time, but it's 27 degrees today, I should have an alternative for summer!

From this documentation it's very clear that I have a preference to loose fitting garments irrespective of the temperature. Skinny jeans are around for a few years now, but I only care for loose fitting "boyfriend" type silhouettes. I know there's a rule saying that if you wear wide pants you should wear tight top, but as evidenced by my (crappy) selfies I ignore it. I like to move a lot and I hate anything that restricts my movements so I'll try to focus on looser pants from now on. The Ultimates could be a good path to follow, maybe I can add a back yoke and draft my way towards a proper jeans variation without the negative ease (they are drafted with 1" of ease, which is the minimal amount for me to feel good in my clothes). 

Another conclusion is that I should focus my fabric quests on lounge wear material, to be used with the "go-to knit pants" I already tried. 

This Me-Made-May proves very effective! I hope you are all enjoying this month as well,

Roni