Cropped Linden, and City Gym Shorts

Hi all!

I'm 'almost' done with the first year of clinical rotations, "only" two exams left! Hopefully I'll pass and then have some time to relax. This year has been something... else. I think I reached my physical limits and I'm paying a price for ignoring health-related issues. In order to remedy this and hopefully get back to my former healthier self I'm slowing things down and trying to rest as much as possible (while hopefully still passing the exams!).

during the past few months I didn't have the energy, both physical energy and mental energy, to sew complicated (or even easy-but-long) projects, but I did manage to finish a couple of much needed tshirts to wear on weekends, a much needed addition to my wardrobe as I lack casual and comfortable clothes to wear during my free time, and often find myself wearing very inappropriate sweatpants paired with one of D's tshirts around the house. There's nothing wrongs with it of course, and I probably will keep this habit sometimes but I rather have more options.

I made two tops, combining dark blue and black fabric with a lot of drape (I don't know the fiber contents).

For the tshirts I used the the short-sleeved version of the Linden sweatshirt from Grainline, this version features elbow length sleeves, a length I find flattering, with a cropped hem. While the hem is too short for some of my pants it is the perfect length to wear with my Moss skirts, and with the newest addition to my wardrobe - a pair of City Gym Shorts by Purl Soho in purple denim.

To make the shorts more appropriate to wear outside I lengthened the inseam (4 cm more of less), straightened the side seams, and drafted pockets that are big enough to hold my phone and keys when I go out on a walk. I also reduced the length (circumference) of the waistline to make them less sporty and more like regular shorts. On the next version I'll try to add darts, and hopefully draft my way to the perfect-yet-comfortable shorts I want so much. I used to go out on walks pretty often to clear my mind and motivate me to study, a hobby I neglected recently because I felt to lousy and week to exercise. Now that I'm getting my strength back I started walking again and this shorts are almost perfect. My only complaint is that the stretch denim feels a bit plastic-y against the skin.

Despite the minor complaints I enjoyed these two garments so much that I finally was motivated enough to tape and cut the Aster shirt from Colette! I'm halfway through my muslin using a really crazy fabric, and I think I would like to find a way to hack this shirt into a jumpsuit. Everybody lookS so comfortable wearing a jumpsuit, I want one as well to test if this jumpsuit party really is worth it ;)

Till next time,

Be well and enjoy sewing!

Wyome Jeans - FAIL

Hi all!

The weather has been warmer for a while, so I spent some time thinking about the gaps in my warm-weather wardrobe and how I would like to manage my sewing for the next few months.

One garment I wanted to make was a pair of boyfriend-style jeans. I prefer wearing loose fitting clothes, especially in warmer weather, and I had blue medium-weight denim with some stretch in my stash that was suitable for this project.

Based on my positive experience with the Alexandria pattern by Named (here and here and I have another unblogged version) I got curious and wanted to try the Wyome pattern. When I started this project (months ago) Morgan from Closet Case Files wasn't out yet, and while a knew that one of these days someone will release a modern boyfriend jeans pattern I couldn't wait. So off I went with the Wyome, knowing it will not be easy based on the way I thought the jeans were drafted. 

I tried to find as many posts/ instagram/ pinterest clues as to how exactly Wyome fits, as I think the description is very different from the pattern itself. First, it was obvious that the pattern as drafted was not so loose fitting as the photos on the model could suggest. Second, the waist is relatively high while in my imagination boyfriend jeans are suppose to have a lower waist.

Based on what I read I decided to start with size 40, at least two sizes larger than what my measurements would suggest (my hips are 89-90 cm circumference, putting my between 34 and 36). 

Based on the first muslin I shortened the front crotch by 4 cm, and then went ahead with a second muslin that fitted more or less as I wanted. However what I failed to take into account is the stretch in the denim I wanted to use - in the final jeans I had to take about 8 cm at the waist, as a result I had to eliminate the 5th pocket and the size of the side pockets was reduced considerably. Another problem I faced was the back crotch, that was not deep (=curvy) enough resulting in some weird wrinkles at the back. I tried as much as possible to change it, but there is only so much one can do with an almost-complete pair of jeans. 

Bottom line - I didn't finish them, and probably never will. 

I put them in my UFO/WIP box, and am trying to figure out my lessons from this project. 

I could be really harsh on myself and say I wasted good fabric on something that had very little chance to succeed (as I knew it won't be easy to get the fit I wanted) but I think wasting good fabric (and time! and money in material!) on failed projects is just part of the process. I still want boyfriend jeans though! When Heather released the Morgan pattern I thought to give it a go, but judging from the photos this pattern is not so loose fitting as drafted, so I don't think it will be the answer to my problem. I do have a pair of RTW jeans I like so I think I can copy them to get the fit I want. I have another very old pair that is now falling apart that I would like to recreate. I guess it shouldn't be more difficult than starting with a new pattern.

The problem is I feel I need a relatively quick and successful project to lift my sewing spirits. My machines were out of order for a while now (I won't elaborate but my zipper sole took the hit during the Wyome battle and both my sewing machine and overlocker had to be taken to the repair shop...) and I had what felt as a long line of not-so-successful-and-not-so-fun projects. After the wedding dress, Wyome and Inari (that I'm still not sure about) I want something interesting that will produce a successful yet fun sewing experience. I cut a few quick knit projects but as the overlocker is still in the shop I need to tackle some woven! 

Maybe it's about time I'll tape and try the Aster from Colette! I've been fantasizing on this pattern ever since it was released but as I've never made a pattern from Colette before I don't know what to expect (with the exception of a Small Bust Adjustment).  

Until I make up my mind, I'll leave you with two current photos of my Inari in action. While I'm still undecided about the cocoon shape, I'm positive that the armscye is too low to allow enough movements. If I choose to make it again, I'll adjust the sleeves based on the Scout pattern that fits me better (it isn't a straight forward adjustment because the patterns are drafted differently but it can be done). I wore the dress to another wedding a week ago. It's my only summer dress so while not perfect it is the best I currently have. Something to consider in the future - I think I'm at the point of "too much cake, not enough frosting". How would have thought it was even possible? 

Alexandria Peg Trousers / Named - in velvet

Hi all!

Here's to a new experience - I'm writing this post on my phone! My laptop battery is empty and there are no suitable plugs in this classroom. 

I'm still waiting for our wedding pictures to arrive, so I can write a proper wedding dress post (or posts..) without waiting forever for the big reveal, but I'm very happy to inform I finished it on time! Truth be told, a friend had to cut the hem a few hours before the wedding while I was working on shortening D's button down shirt, but everything worked out perfectly and I was happy and comfortable in my hand made outfit.

No more than two days following the wedding I started binge-sewing all the knits that were waiting in my stash. The first project was this pair of Alexandria peg trousers. I bought this weird dotted light blue velvet fabric while fabric-shopping for the wedding outfit (along with the scuba knit I made into a Linden before starting with the dress), and cut them before the wedding.  After making my first Alexandria I knew I wanted more pairs from this pattern, but being rather traditional with my pants choices I didn't want to try a patterned fabric. When I saw the velvet I thought it could be a nice opportunity to try a new-to-me fabric with the potential of creating something different and interesting to beef up my lounge-wear / weekend wardrobe.

Sewing this fabric was a bit tricky partially due to the stretch and drape that were difficult to control but mostly because the layers of the velvet kept shifting under the machine.

While very soft  and stretchy, the fabric is quite thick and warm. The thickness means there's  more fabric around the hips / waist area than I would have liked, and in retrospect I should have used thinner fabric for the pockets and maybe even for the waistband. 

Unlike my previous version, due to the fabric's characteristics (as well as my general hastiness) the front pleats are not as tidy as should be. The outcome is looks like gathering rather than the neat two pleats the pattern calls for, although I didn't (intentionally) gathered the waistband.

Despite all the mishaps I like them more than I have imagined I would. These pants are shiny, drape well, fun and comfortable, and are something I imagine would be appropriate for a Disco party. Other people's opinions were less supportive - my cousins said the silhouette is awesome ( thanks Named!) but they would look better in a different fabric. I realize wearing shiny velvet pants is not trendy (right now) but I'm happy with the less-obvious choice of fabric. I will probably make this pattern again, but I would like to continue to explore the possibilities it holds without sticking with the trendy/ traditional/ RTW inspired fabric choices this pattern suits for.

I first wore them to my grandmother's 85th birthday, which was a very casual weekend event, along with my first Linden (unblogged) and Birkenstock clogs. Time will tell if the outside criticism will change my mind, or rather - I'll continue to enjoy them and everyone will follow.

what do you think? To much? Or just right?

Notes:
Like the previous version, I made a straight size 36 (my hips are ~88 but I prefer my clothes looser than the average person, I think). I made no changes to the pattern other than omitting the drawstring at the waist (because I don't have one currently... I think It's a great addition and will probably add some once I get the chance to buy it).
Due to the 4-way stretch, I think I hemmed them using a dipper hem. the weight of the fabric causes the legs to twist some time, causing the diagonal lines in the pictures.
I didn't interface anything (because I'm lazy) or pressed any of the seams (told you I was binge-sewing...!) resulting in some back-pockets floppiness I actually quite like.
This version hits just below my navel, while the previous (woven) version seats lower at the waist.

Alexandria Peg Trousers by Named

Hi All!

Med-school started four weeks ago, and it is not as bad as I anticipated. We had the first test two weeks ago and it went well, despite the fact I spent the last weeks on-and-off sick. I hope things will slowly settle into a routine that will allow me to study, work, sew, run, and spend time with my friends and family. Actually today was the first time I ran this week, as I spent most of it fighting a cold - and I had so much fun!

I'm looking for patterns and ideas for my light workout / lounge wear wardrobe. In the weekend before med-school started, instead of finishing off my responsibilities to work, I made up the Alexandria Peg Trousers by Named. This was my first time sewing with a Named pattern, and judging by the success of this garment - it won't be the last time I buy a pattern from them. I was looking for a trousers pattern for a woven fabric that is casual and comfortable. I like the general aesthetic of the Alexandria, but I didn't know if it could work with my body type - the model in the pictures is stick thin, and I was afraid the pleats won't do me any good. However despite my concerns I couldn't let go of this pattern and eventually bought it and made it up immediately!

I'm SO happy with this make! I have no idea what fabric I used - I just bought something black and thin with good drape. The fabric is soft to the touch, and the trousers are so comfortable! I even wore them for a short hike we took:

I wore them with my hemlock tee, and my UV protection sleeves. Black is very difficult to photograph, I'm sorry for the lack of details, but hey - you get a good idea of the view from the Jerusalem mountains :)

As it's the first time I sew with a Named pattern, I was a bit worried about the fit. Based on my hip measurement (about 90 cm) I was between 34 and 36, but I do have a very full seat so I sized up and after a quick muslin decided I was good to go. I'm happy with the fit of the trousers, they are loose fitting but the length and the tapering of the pant leg make them more appropriate for casual wear.

The instructions are great, and sewing was fun and smooth. The only part I had difficulty with was pressing the seam allowance of the pockets. The pockets are curved, so I had to fight with the iron. Next time I'll make a cardboard template I can use as a guide.

I do need another one of these in my wardrobe, possibly something a bit warmer as the weather here is getting colder. I have a light-grey flannel that may be a good candidate for my next attempt... although I doubt I can beat the success of these trousers - I wear them all the time and I think they are one of my favorite makes of all times!

In addition to having so much fun with this pattern, I'm also very happy I've discovered a "new to me" indie sewing company. I already have some of their patterns on my wishlist, one of them is the Rene Maxi Skirt pattern, to be used for my wedding skirt.

Have you sewn with Named before? I'm looking for information regarding the Wyome jeans pattern, I would like to try it as my next Named advernture...

The "Don't wait for perfection" denim Jedidiah pants

I have this rule of thumb, when I see bottom weight fabric that I like (or see some potential in) I buy 1.5 meters of it. I think it's more difficult to find pant-worthy fabric than other kinds designed for tops, and this is especially true if I want to sew something for D. I have the same rule for colorful / patterned masculine warm knits but these are impossible to source that early in the fall so I've yet to find fabric for our Finlaysons.

Anyway a few weeks ago we went fabric shopping together (!) and I came across some really nice blue denim with no stretch. Since I don't wear pants with no stretch, and since this nice fabric was too good to pass up I decided to buy 1.5, enough for Jedediah pants. 

The original plan was to re-draft the front piece (and the pockets) to make a jean-style pant. I wanted to use rivets as well, something I would like to try but never had the chance. But time past and I didn't touch the pattern yet. I'm lazy with drafting because it requires more floor-space and also I don't have tracing paper, so I either tape together printer paper, or use some other material I have which isn't optimal for pattern drafting at all.

Fast forward a few weeks and I read Emma's post about her 5 secrets to success, of which "don't wait for perfection" was three on the list. It isn't much of a secret, really. I think anyone who creates anything in their day-job is familiar with the struggle between wanting to produce the "perfect product" (now!) and the desire to FINISH a project knowing that the next projects will benefit from the experience gained in the previews ones. I found it difficult to let go of my idea with making a jean-style trouser but it had become clear to me that I rather make something now than wait forever until I find the time and patient to draft.

One change I didn't give up on was facing the back pockets. I've made this pattern in the current style 3 times before, and pressing under the seam-allowance on the back pockets gave me trouble each time. I don't like how the seam allowance is exposed inside the pocket, especially not on a pair destined to be worn by someone else whom I don't expect to take special care of his clothes. Usually I just serge the seam allowance, taking advantage of the serged edge to guide me with folding the seam allowance. This time I wanted to try something different with a completely faced pocket. I used some remnants from my stash and faced the pocket by sewing the self piece and facing piece right sides together around the entire pocket, leaving a small hole through which I could turn the pocket inside out. I didn't want the facing to show so I cut it a little smaller to account for the turn-of-cloth. Overall I'm happy with the result!

I tried flat felled seams but it didn't work out too well on the crotch seam. I think the fabric is just too thick to work with this seam finish. for the side seams I used binding, but forgot to finish the curved edge of the zipper extension. Also, as seen below, I didn't cut the top stitching thread after knotting it. I was too afraid it will unravel.

D likes his jeans and the fit is great. I changed the order of construction so that sewing the side seams was the last step before the waistband. I prefer this order because it allows for last-minute fit alternations on top of making inserting the zipper a little less complicated.

I added bar tacks on the front pockets openings. As illustrated in the below picture (he's raising his arms above his head) that's a point of stress on the pants. From the side the facing of the back pockets shows a little, proving my efforts to account for turn-of-cloth unsuccessful. I'll play with it some more on my next makes, what can I say, it's a learning process...

Despite all of the minor mishaps I think it's the most successful pair I made so far! And I'm glad I didn't wait "for perfection" with this make, It's the best fitting pair of jeans he now owns!

Costs:

pattern (calculated cost per make):   1.52 $ *

fabric: 37 ILS = 11$

notions = 10.5 ILS = 3$

Total = 15.52$ (55 ILS)

* I bought the pattern as part of the Parkland Wardrobe Builder for a total of 27.5$, or for 9 dollars per pattern. I've made this pattern 6 times so far, so the relative cost for each make is about 1.52 dollars.

Victory in the form of polka-dot pants

Hi all!

It's difficult to see the polka-dots. My (self-drafted self-made) tshirt is completely see-through, though. Luckily I'm wearing my good sports bra.

Pants were on the top of my "to make" list for a few years, but it wasn't until a year ago that I made my first pair. They weren't for me, though. I started with the Jedediah pattern for my boyfriend so I could get use to the fly thingy before dipping my toe in the fitting pool for a women's pair.

I've since made 5 pairs for him and 4 pairs of jeans for me, but never tried to make women's slacks as I couldn't find a proper PDF pattern. My luck changed (for better or worse?) two months ago, when an airline company lost my luggage on the way to Sicily where I was flying for a work-trip.

When it happened my closet was 95% me mades; three days later and I was head-to-toe H&M. There was very little I could do about it, as I had to buy clothes to wear during my stay, so I decided to concentrate on buying garments that had different silhouettes from those I usually make and wear. 

I ended up buying a pair of patterned slacks from H&M, and decided to draft a pattern based on them.

When you ask your boyfriend to take pictures of your behind, you end up with weird things on your camera roll.

For a first-try with the pattern I think these are rather good. There's something about wearing a pair of slacks with single-welt pockets and polka-dots that makes me really happy and comfortable in my own skin, even though the fit needs some improving.

for the next pair I'll make the following changes:

1. Take a wedge out of the front crotch (1 cm in the center, tapered to nothing at the side seams).

2. Lower the front pockets 1 cm.

3. Optional: use Madalynne's tutorial and create tummy tuck pockets.

4. Replace the current waistband with a shaped one. I'm not sure how much of a difference it will make since the rise of the pants is high, but if I make my own pants, I want a shaped waistband!

5. Take better pictures. Everyone is talking about blog pictures this month... I should learn from the experts! Although it's not like I'M the one taking the photos.

6. Use regular zipper instead of jean zipper. I guess it goes without saying for most of you, but I used the only type of zipper I had in my stash, and it doesn't work. The fabric is too lightweight to support the weight of the zipper even though I interfaced what needed to be interfaced.


What will you wear with slacks?

I'm trying to explore more silhouettes, inspired by the Wardrobe Architect series. Lately I wore mostly loose tshirts (knit or woven) and skinny jeans. It's very practical for my day-job but with fall wardrobe on my mind I would like to explore other combinations. Slacks are different from jeans in the way they create a bottom-heavier look, so I'm looking for tops that will balance the proportions. Maybe something more form fitting but with emphasis on the shoulders?

And with fall fashion of my mind, I think the summer dresses I planned will have to wait for the next season. I won't get much wear out of them now and honestly I prefer fall/winter sewing anyway.

So, what's on your fall sewing list? What bottoms do you wear during the fall? What do you think about slacks?