tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33235624048818826122024-03-05T04:56:05.378-08:00Wardrobe HistologyRoni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-25354907373425029292016-08-17T10:33:00.000-07:002016-08-17T10:34:20.715-07:00The Grinch Who Stole Summer, or: Life is short, make the coatHi all!<br />
The days are getting shorter and colder (only in Jerusalem, the rest of Israel is still like living in a toaster), and I'm sad that I didn't have a chance to "summer" this year. I usually enjoy the longest days, just being thankful for more hours of light. Last year we've spent August in Scotland where we had sunlight till 22:00 and I miss that so much. Spending August (not) studying for exams is not right.<br />
Yesterday I had my monthly check-up and the doctor said thing are going well and I don't need to come again for 3 months! I was so stressed while waiting for my appointment, so I promised myself that if things are better than last time I'm throwing caution to the wind and starting my Cascade duffle coat RIGHT NOW. It is my dream project but I procrastinated it for so long because that are so many obstacles to overcome before construction begins.<br />
Today I spend 2.5 hours taping and cutting the PDF after unsuccessful attempts to print it in a copy shop. Apparently in Israel they charge about 80$ for a job like this.<br />
Next I need to cut the fabric. Being my first coat, I didn't really know what kind of fabric I should buy for the shell. I bought it in an end-of-winter sale for 2.5$ a meter, but I think it's too thin for a sturdy coat. My plan is to interface all the pieces, and cut the main pieces on a double layer. Consequently it means I need to cut the shell, than additional shell pieces, than all pieces from fusible interfacing, than the lining pieces. Of course my shell fabric is plaid, so I'll have the fun of matching plaid and deciding on location/ grain etc. At this point I'm so mentally invested in the project all of these decisions seem really important, even though I know it doesn't matter so much if the pockets are on the bias or not. <br />
The last obstacle is the fit. I'm not making a muslin because I don't have anything in my stash in similar weight and making a muslin from a different material won't help very much. I know that this project may not work out but I'm fine with it. The shell fabric was cheap so it is as close to a test garment as possible (though I'm not cutting any corners in construction!). My Grainline size is 2 (or 2.5), and both my Lindens and Archers fit me well in this size. The only part I worry about is the fit around the shoulders as mine are broader than average. My plan is to try the shell on once I'm done before grading the seams, and if necessary release the seams a bit.<br />
Hopefully I'll finish the cutting, fusing and basting this weekend.<br />
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Till next time,<br />
Happy sewing!Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-10480593492310452342016-08-14T07:29:00.001-07:002016-08-14T07:31:22.778-07:00Victoria Blazer review <div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi all!</div>
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Yesterday I took the last exam of the year, in pediatrics. I don't have the grade yet so I can't fully celebrate the end of the academic year but chances are I passed it. I past my previews two as well (internal medicine and surgery) despite not studying and having a miserable experience (at least in the surgery exam). Pediatrics is my strongest discipline so I'm letting myself indulge in not feeling guilty over not studying; guilt is such a time sucker! It's a strange position to be at, just aiming to pass the exams rather than excel them, but this year (my seventh year in university) introduced new challenges and priorities, so I'll take what I get. </div>
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My SewJo is back so I'm enjoying that as well. My first impression of the academic year is that I barely managed to sew, but that isn't true. With the exception of sewing my wedding dress (I haven't posted it yet but I will) I also made a few utilitarian garments, mostly Linden sweatshirts by Grainline, and tried at least one new-to-me pattern - the <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2016_03_01_archive.html" target="_blank">Inari by Named </a>. Though it isn't the end of 2016, the end of an academic year always puts me in a pensive mode so taking the time to remember the successes isn't too bad, especially among the "failures" a faced this year.</div>
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While I have many new ideas for upcoming projects I decided I'll restrict my fabric options to my stash until its volume will fit into one shelf in our closet. I'm not sure how it will go yet because I find that the more I sew from my stash the more volume it occupies, because the leftovers aren't easy to fold but harder to use. With that thought in mind I also decided not to put buttons on my <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2016/08/one-stitch-at-time-aster-progress.html" target="_blank">Aster test garment for now</a>, the fabric isn't pleasant to wear and I don't want to "waste" buttons on something I'm not likely to wear. As a test garment it has done its job of teaching me what I need to know in order to make my real Aster, and finishing it just for the sake of finishing doesn't feel right. </div>
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BTW I've been mistaken for being pregnant because of the Aster picture (by a non-sewing bad-mannered person obviously). Just want to clear that up - I'm not, it's the cotton tank underneath that makes the shirt "stand". </div>
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And now for the Victoria Blazer -</div>
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I think it's the fastest from-purchase-to-garment item I have ever made. Last weekend I suddenly really wanted to make that floral cotton lycra I had in my stash into a loose fitting blazer and yesterday it has made its debut in the pediatrics exam! It was a satisfying make with good pattern-fabric compatibility. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06DLWlHBY8m_GM7F2E6rHqMuiDpb1n6blGrzxvLALew1Oyk5v-lN5yVFeSUO2xoD6tPqvLufAht6AKk3NXzhHUq__Ljh-PTSgt3HE9qetcFp1iGBntAxBIyQQsL46CRBu5ejpTWLE1UOn/s1600/Victoria1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh06DLWlHBY8m_GM7F2E6rHqMuiDpb1n6blGrzxvLALew1Oyk5v-lN5yVFeSUO2xoD6tPqvLufAht6AKk3NXzhHUq__Ljh-PTSgt3HE9qetcFp1iGBntAxBIyQQsL46CRBu5ejpTWLE1UOn/s640/Victoria1.jpg" width="364" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Worn over one of my favorite <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2015/04/strathcona-by-thread-theory-endless.html" target="_blank">Strathconas</a> with my pre-test face of horror</td></tr>
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<b>The dry facts</b></div>
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<b>Pattern </b></div>
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The Victoria Blazer is a half-lined loose fitting blazer by "By Hand London". </div>
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The pattern is half lined, with the body lined using the same pieces of the shell, leaving the sleeves unlined. The blazer has side-seam pockets, the collar is flat, and the lining is attached using the bagging technique. </div>
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At first I was reluctant to sew from By Hand London. I'm more likely to purchase patterns produced by brands that make me feel like I "know" the person behind them and with whom I share values/ lifestyle/ fashion style. By Hand London is a very contemporary cool brand with very cool patterns, which is quit the opposite of my uncool self. Additionally I prefer less edited / more natural presentation of garments. The sample photos of their patterns is similar in presentation to RTW sites and that puts me off a little. however, from the (less edited) versions on-line/ Instagram, I thought the Victoria Blazer as a pattern was nice on its own so I wanted to try. </div>
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I used the PDF version (as always). The A4 pages did not fully align, I was a bit disappointed with it, but that's normal for most PDF patterns. </div>
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<b>Fabric</b></div>
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Floral cotton-lycra for the shell, with contrast cotton-lycra for the collar and lapel. Black viscose for lining. Interfacing, and cotton scraps for the pockets. All materials are from my stash (yey!!)<b> </b></div>
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<b>Sizing and modifications </b></div>
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Based on my bust circumference (85 cm full bust, AA cup) I'm between
size 2 and 4. Given my small cup size and the oversized silhouette I
went for a size 2.</div>
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I couldn't rationalize the half-line approach so I cut the sleeve pieces from my lining fabric as well for a fully lined version.</div>
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I only loosely followed the instructions, as I find them too long, and I made some changes to the order of construction. I also interfaced the collar and lapels, and made a wider hem (5cm) for a shorter cut. </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtoOTecHliTi4H4Snvqh2iDfxExF9gUWnOTwmOum9rLYtnF1F1a8naXvkgWWz-iyD_U19CanAJJNywUmnO6cmiWqn-0BtzON_0R1N-N0oJICMPcDUpJeZ2QjCdabD3dADTMpwW8rkZABHv/s1600/IMG-20160812-WA0006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtoOTecHliTi4H4Snvqh2iDfxExF9gUWnOTwmOum9rLYtnF1F1a8naXvkgWWz-iyD_U19CanAJJNywUmnO6cmiWqn-0BtzON_0R1N-N0oJICMPcDUpJeZ2QjCdabD3dADTMpwW8rkZABHv/s640/IMG-20160812-WA0006.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Worn over my only "formal" dress, made four years ago but going strong! Went with my best friend to celebrate our 7th friendship day</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b>Pros</b></div>
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I think it's a great oversized blazer perfect for air-conditioned environments. The loose fit doesn't restrict movement and I love how the floral makes it summary and "light" without being too cute. It fits a gap in my wardrobe I couldn't define, which is unexpected. I made it just for fun but I've worn it already. I feel a real bad-ass when wearing it! I went outside my comfort zone with this one and I'm happy I did. Also it's the first time I ever bagged a lining before!</div>
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<b>Cons</b></div>
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It feels a bit... like "fast sewing". The lining rolls from inside of the jacket. Before closing the hem I trimmed the seam allowance and that helped a bit, but without under-stitching and without facings there is only so much one can expect from a slippery lining fabric. There were also some additional "glitches" in constructions, probably my fault, but the lapels were too long so they are caught in the hem. I'm also bothered with the flat collar. I think a collar stand and facings would make a better pattern/ garment without taking away from the overall casual feel of the blazer. Lastly, I would prefer a different method of construction such that the lining's hem would be shorter than the shell. Using the same pattern pieces means that the lining shows under the hem.</div>
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All of the above result in a faster process of construction, but I felt like it compromised the quality of the end result. </div>
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I could probably go on and on about each and every tiny detail that makes this blazer less than perfect and criticize my skills, but hey! I'm a med-student! I pay so others can criticize me instead!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrGv9jVIF0OfeBXNRC4uIAtxgh1u6lzYwaIGZw_UaD1XIwlYWE-MkFd8HGToooohQMTUWtI2hW52EYVQdcI9km47Y_C23Wi8IJ78-_nm1Wbb6BSgErKFIsJsqFVc-9IDobnbY6TlH7GVYI/s1600/IMG-20160812-WA0008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrGv9jVIF0OfeBXNRC4uIAtxgh1u6lzYwaIGZw_UaD1XIwlYWE-MkFd8HGToooohQMTUWtI2hW52EYVQdcI9km47Y_C23Wi8IJ78-_nm1Wbb6BSgErKFIsJsqFVc-9IDobnbY6TlH7GVYI/s640/IMG-20160812-WA0008.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
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All in all despite the few details I mentioned, this is a really nice blazer and I'm happy I tried the pattern. It is a great pattern for a first lined garment and I probably would have postponed trying this new-to-me skill if not for the easy(ish) pattern. It is fun to wear and is a great alternative for the summer, after wearing my Linden sweatshirts throughout June I should have figured that out... I have the <a href="http://papercutpatterns.com/products/bellatrix-blazer" target="_blank">Bellatrix Blazer</a> waiting for me once I want to try again with a more structured version.</div>
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On other news I've already completed my "real" Aster (only buttonholes and buttons left to sew... famous last words!), and it's really nice! (despite, you know, not being perfect...). More on that next time.</div>
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Enjoy the remaining of the summer!</div>
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Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-33754866676811979782016-08-06T02:51:00.000-07:002016-08-07T03:51:48.675-07:00One stitch at a time... Aster progress <div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi all!</div>
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I'm trying to keep myself together during the last weeks of the academic year while feeling rather disconnected from it all. I took the General Surgery exam today which was a complete disaster that left me physically drained, so I couldn't finish the Aster I started, but a stitch a day will eventually result in a complete garment. I often expect that surgery will make sense to me, just as sewing usually does, but the reality is different. While nothing in medicine is ever black and white multiple choice questions tend to focus on the grey area in which choosing the "correct" answer is sometimes impossible; especially if you're the kind of person that always overthink things and don't accept "raw edges" in anything in life. I'm trying to remind myself that unlike these weird and crazy exams in real life I can sometimes find a place where I belong, and manage scenarios much better... and maybe I should also work on that "raw edges" thing. Imperfection can be perfect in its own way. </div>
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Back to sewing - I bought the <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/aster" target="_blank">Aster pattern </a>immediately upon its release, a very rare impulse purchase, because at the time I was looking for a button down (or up? can you please explain the difference?) pattern that is less boxy and casual than the <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/products/archer-button-up-shirt" target="_blank">Archer</a>, and also a pattern that offers short sleeves with cuffs along with the traditional long sleeve (with a tower placket!). The only down side of the pattern is the C cup bust that it is drafted for. I usually make a Small Bust Adjustment on my tops anyway (to correct the standard B cup to my AA), but I was afraid the pattern will not suit my body type, being drafted for a more traditional woman figure than mine. </div>
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the <a href="https://www.sewalongs.com/aster/aster-bust-adjustments" target="_blank">Small Bust Adjustment </a>for the Aster recommends the sewer to choose the size based on the circumference of the full bust corrected to a C cup. According to this I should have made a size 4 or 6, based on my "corrected" bust measurement (I have a 85cm full bust, with 85cm upper bust. true story). After overthinking it (for months) I decided to go with a size 2 according to my true full bust measurement with 1 cm extra, and do a 0.5" SBA on each front. Despite what it appears to be, sewing isn't pure math... </div>
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Instead of sewing a complete muslin I decided to try a quick test garment with the only piece of stash fabric I don't really like - I got it from a friend's mother, while the print is crazy in a good way, the fabric itself feels like plastic. </div>
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Despite breaking all the sewing rules, neglecting all the notches and not pressing any of the seams, the more progress I make the more I like this shirt. I only have the hem and buttons to complete and it might end up a wearable garment!</div>
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I feel stupid for putting off this project just because I was afraid from making a mistake - cutting the wrong size and ruining good fabric. The more I read about fabric waste and the ecological impact the more guilt I feel towards my NEED to create with PHYSICAL MATERIAL. I can't live only on the virtual world and fabric is like air to me. Depriving myself of it just because I'm afraid to increase my ecological footprint is such a burden, so is avoiding new patterns just because they might not suit me. At the end re-sewing TNTs or only attempting shape-less garments that require little to no fitting is not fun. It is extremely practical, but not crafty. Working on a new pattern and not thinking too much about the end result is so liberating. Like a child crafting in the present and not worrying about the space it will occupy in the world and such. </div>
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So with that positive spirit I'll leave you with a picture of me trying on my almost-complete Aster proudly worn over my me-made pajamas (city gym shorts, and a tank from a slip pattern).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2io4oCUygL7skoL8zk7bI42GTFOqUzCsrCmrWxqmgXO8iWcy5pJs9lKYv7DV0rB9-c6e-sp4PabG5hfPu96mNE27uaf5RUdqSXul091f1f9Ffsd6brWSsR_8iG5jknfUzOGj8sdIzkmHZ/s1600/aster.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2io4oCUygL7skoL8zk7bI42GTFOqUzCsrCmrWxqmgXO8iWcy5pJs9lKYv7DV0rB9-c6e-sp4PabG5hfPu96mNE27uaf5RUdqSXul091f1f9Ffsd6brWSsR_8iG5jknfUzOGj8sdIzkmHZ/s1600/aster.jpg" /></a></div>
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I thought of sewing another Aster (the practicality!) but after a successful challenge I would like another... Now I'm thinking of sewing the <a href="http://byhandlondon.com/products/victoria-blazer" target="_blank">Victoria blazer</a> using a colorful bright floral I have in my stash. What do you think?</div>
Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-29397498963894256812016-07-29T11:49:00.000-07:002016-07-30T00:30:13.902-07:00Cropped Linden, and City Gym Shorts<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi all!</div>
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I'm 'almost' done with the first year of clinical rotations, "only" two exams left! Hopefully I'll pass and then have some time to relax. This year has been something... else. I think I reached my physical limits and I'm paying a price for ignoring health-related issues. In order to remedy this and hopefully get back to my former healthier self I'm slowing things down and trying to rest as much as possible (while hopefully still passing the exams!).</div>
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during the past few months I didn't have the energy, both physical energy and mental energy, to sew complicated (or even easy-but-long) projects, but I did manage to finish a couple of much needed tshirts to wear on weekends, a much needed addition to my wardrobe as I lack casual and comfortable clothes to wear during my free time, and often find myself wearing very inappropriate sweatpants paired with one of D's tshirts around the house. There's nothing wrongs with it of course, and I probably will keep this habit sometimes but I rather have more options. </div>
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I made two tops, combining dark blue and black fabric with a lot of drape (I don't know the fiber contents).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVOBDGMwboe3ISM4_Vw_-D6hmQg-hK0yisiN8N9DKiISeR-o-PzoSDfWyhR3-g3HJz18xIceWiA0KKbo5h7JU8dBWxElKcFWPNQ4aLU2fTGmkfROF3bkyubmq3wOY9POEU1Oeea672N-O5/s1600/linden_citygymshorts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVOBDGMwboe3ISM4_Vw_-D6hmQg-hK0yisiN8N9DKiISeR-o-PzoSDfWyhR3-g3HJz18xIceWiA0KKbo5h7JU8dBWxElKcFWPNQ4aLU2fTGmkfROF3bkyubmq3wOY9POEU1Oeea672N-O5/s1600/linden_citygymshorts.jpg" /></a></div>
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For the tshirts I used the the short-sleeved version of the Linden sweatshirt from Grainline, this version features elbow length sleeves, a length I find flattering, with a cropped hem. While the hem is too short for some of my pants it is the perfect length to wear with my Moss skirts, and with the newest addition to my wardrobe - a pair of <a href="http://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/07/24/corinnes-thread-city-gym-shorts-for-all-ages/" target="_blank">City Gym Shorts</a> by Purl Soho in purple denim.</div>
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To make the shorts more appropriate to wear outside I lengthened the inseam (4 cm more of less), straightened the side seams, and drafted pockets that are big enough to hold my phone and keys when I go out on a walk. I also reduced the length (circumference) of the waistline to make them less sporty and more like regular shorts. On the next version I'll try to add darts, and hopefully draft my way to the perfect-yet-comfortable shorts I want so much. I used to go out on walks pretty often to clear my mind and motivate me to study, a hobby I neglected recently because I felt to lousy and week to exercise. Now that I'm getting my strength back I started walking again and this shorts are almost perfect. My only complaint is that the stretch denim feels a bit plastic-y against the skin. </div>
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Despite the minor complaints I enjoyed these two garments so much that I finally was motivated enough to tape and cut the<a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/aster" target="_blank"> Aster</a> shirt from Colette! I'm halfway through my muslin using a really crazy fabric, and I think I would like to find a way to hack this shirt into a jumpsuit. Everybody lookS so comfortable wearing a jumpsuit, I want one as well to test if this jumpsuit party really is worth it ;)</div>
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Till next time,</div>
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Be well and enjoy sewing!</div>
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Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-36361314502426767732016-05-12T07:15:00.001-07:002016-05-12T07:15:58.652-07:00Wyome Jeans - FAILHi all!<br />
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The weather has been warmer for a while, so I spent some time thinking about the gaps in my warm-weather wardrobe and how I would like to manage my sewing for the next few months.</div>
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One garment I wanted to make was a pair of boyfriend-style jeans. I prefer wearing loose fitting clothes, especially in warmer weather, and I had blue medium-weight denim with some stretch in my stash that was suitable for this project.</div>
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Based on my positive experience with the Alexandria pattern by Named (<a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2015/11/alexandria-peg-trousers-by-named.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2016/02/alexandria-peg-trousers-named-in-velvet.html" target="_blank">here</a> and I have another unblogged version) I got curious and wanted to try the <a href="https://www.namedclothing.com/shop/wyome-boyfriend-jeans/" target="_blank">Wyome</a> pattern. When I started this project (months ago) Morgan from Closet Case Files wasn't out yet, and while a knew that one of these days someone will release a modern boyfriend jeans pattern I couldn't wait. So off I went with the Wyome, knowing it will not be easy based on the way I thought the jeans were drafted. </div>
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I tried to find as many posts/ instagram/ pinterest clues as to how exactly Wyome fits, as I think the description is very different from the pattern itself. First, it was obvious that the pattern as drafted was not so loose fitting as the photos on the model could suggest. Second, the waist is relatively high while in my imagination boyfriend jeans are suppose to have a lower waist.</div>
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Based on what I read I decided to start with size 40, at least two sizes larger than what my measurements would suggest (my hips are 89-90 cm circumference, putting my between 34 and 36). </div>
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Based on the first muslin I shortened the front crotch by 4 cm, and then went ahead with a second muslin that fitted more or less as I wanted. However what I failed to take into account is the stretch in the denim I wanted to use - in the final jeans I had to take about 8 cm at the waist, as a result I had to eliminate the 5th pocket and the size of the side pockets was reduced considerably. Another problem I faced was the back crotch, that was not deep (=curvy) enough resulting in some weird wrinkles at the back. I tried as much as possible to change it, but there is only so much one can do with an almost-complete pair of jeans. </div>
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Bottom line - I didn't finish them, and probably never will. </div>
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I put them in my UFO/WIP box, and am trying to figure out my lessons from this project. </div>
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I could be really harsh on myself and say I wasted good fabric on something that had very little chance to succeed (as I knew it won't be easy to get the fit I wanted) but I think wasting good fabric (and time! and money in material!) on failed projects is just part of the process. I still want boyfriend jeans though! When Heather released the Morgan pattern I thought to give it a go, but judging from the photos this pattern is not so loose fitting as drafted, so I don't think it will be the answer to my problem. I do have a pair of RTW jeans I like so I think I can copy them to get the fit I want. I have another very old pair that is now falling apart that I would like to recreate. I guess it shouldn't be more difficult than starting with a new pattern.</div>
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The problem is I feel I need a relatively quick and successful project to lift my sewing spirits. My machines were out of order for a while now (I won't elaborate but my zipper sole took the hit during the Wyome battle and both my sewing machine and overlocker had to be taken to the repair shop...) and I had what felt as a long line of not-so-successful-and-not-so-fun projects. After the wedding dress, Wyome and Inari (that I'm still not sure about) I want something interesting that will produce a successful yet fun sewing experience. I cut a few quick knit projects but as the overlocker is still in the shop I need to tackle some woven! </div>
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Maybe it's about time I'll tape and try the Aster from Colette! I've been fantasizing on this pattern ever since it was released but as I've never made a pattern from Colette before I don't know what to expect (with the exception of a Small Bust Adjustment). </div>
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Until I make up my mind, I'll leave you with two current photos of my Inari in action. While I'm still undecided about the cocoon shape, I'm positive that the armscye is too low to allow enough movements. If I choose to make it again, I'll adjust the sleeves based on the Scout pattern that fits me better (it isn't a straight forward adjustment because the patterns are drafted differently but it can be done). I wore the dress to another wedding a week ago. It's my only summer dress so while not perfect it is the best I currently have. Something to consider in the future - I think I'm at the point of <a href="http://sewaholic.net/too-much-frosting-not-enough-cake/" target="_blank">"too much cake, not enough frosting". </a>How would have thought it was even possible? </div>
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<br />Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-19620844279606448912016-03-06T04:55:00.001-08:002016-08-07T03:51:09.751-07:00Inari Tdress / Named<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh23m65J4ncucfAy57YAfYkHiL1UJ2qryyltjLmXr0xlQ9wLvmkEEOKBD1s1gSOmwGalLQxVSdeRCpQKgkrMgbrRKC9rqP0lKf-jpNBuS6dmQm2uWLoM_0aF0pgR6lcL764TVAowKKymP-4/s1600/IMG-20160306-WA0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh23m65J4ncucfAy57YAfYkHiL1UJ2qryyltjLmXr0xlQ9wLvmkEEOKBD1s1gSOmwGalLQxVSdeRCpQKgkrMgbrRKC9rqP0lKf-jpNBuS6dmQm2uWLoM_0aF0pgR6lcL764TVAowKKymP-4/s640/IMG-20160306-WA0001.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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A few days ago I had an episode of anaphylaxis, a severe allergic reaction to something. I have about two episodes a years, around this time when all the flowers are blooming and most allergic people go around glued to tissue and antihistamines. Despite the fact I'm used to it by now, whenever it happens and I need to inject myself with epipen I get puzzeled and confused. I know it takes me four days of rest until I recuperate from anaphylaxis so I try to convince myself it isn't really happening. Well - it happened, and as always it happened late at night while I was alone.</div>
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I spent the following two days in bed feeling sorry for myself with only short breaks from sleeping. By the end of the second day I felt I had to do something productive. I have the Wyome pattern by Named on the list, and have already made the first muslin, but making a second muslin wasn't really appealing to me at that point. I wanted immediate satisfaction!</div>
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So I took out the fabric I kept for the Inari dress and started cutting it.</div>
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The Inari pattern by Named is well documented and very popular, and initially I thought the coccun shape will not suit my figure. I'm flat chested and my legs are not my best feature, so on paper this should be the worst choice for me. But I received printed cotton from a friend's mother and thought the Inari was the best pattern to showcase the unique print. Also I notice my wardrobe lacks "evening wear", something more special than jeans and a button-up, but not too dressy. Something I can reach for when we go out for coffee and such. At the same time I dislike fitted garments, especially when dinner is involved, so the shape of this dress is perfect for such a wardeobe gap.</div>
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I muslined the pattern a few weeks ago just so I can be sure of the size. I went with 36 despite my flat chest and thought the size fitted me well. For this version I haven't adjusted the pattern and it fits well as is, but for future versions I'll go down a size. Initially I thought a small bust adjustment will do the trick, but after wearing the dress during a hike I understand the dress is overall too big.</div>
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This is is the second pattern I make by Named and again I think it's a great success! I still haven't decide about the shape, though. I like it but I'm afraid people will think I'm hiding a bump... We'll see if I reach for this dress in the future, and if so, if I like the way I feel while wearing it.</div>
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When assembling the PDF I find that not all lines meet, but when assembling the dress itself all notches correspond well to one another. Another small complaint I have is that the pattern pieces themselves hold very little information regarding how many to cut for each version, and even the foldlines aren't marked. I would appreciate more information on the pattern pieces so I wouldn't have to look at the instructions so often.</div>
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On the other hand, I love the way this pattern comes together. Unlike other companies that leave the decision regarding seam finishes to the seamstress, Named instruct you when to finish the seams resulting in a very neat finish. I followed their instructions and used my serger to finish the seams. While I usually prefer French seams on woven garments, I love how flat and simple open serged edges are. One reason to putting off this project was that I couldn't decide whether I wanted to try French seams or just go with the instructions. At the end despite using a non-matching thread (I only have 3 colors and threading my serger with black wasn't going to happen that day) I like the neat result.</div>
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For the neckline I used facing rather than binding. The pattern has both options, but I was intrigued to see how well a facing would behave. I haven't installed a facing in a long time and wandered if I could achieve a better looking facing now that I notice things like grainlines, notches and understitching...</div>
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I'm happy to report the facing behaves well, despite some miss-handling on my part (I didn't fused the facing, mostly because I hate fusible interfacing, and I thought the cotton can hold the shape well).</div>
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I've only worn this dress ones, because I intend to wear it to my cousin's wedding two weeks from now, and I enjoyed the overall feel. Again my only concerns are with size being too big and the lack of shaping around the waist. I know it's a very popular silhouette but I don't have the best body image, and rally afraid someone will ask me if I'm pregnant.</div>
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It has just occurred to me that maybe on other parts of the world people are less up front with this line of questioning? In Israel people are known to be really nosy, especially with young couples. I'm very conscience of my body and so I can easily get offended when someone stares at the wrong parts. Let's see if I follow through with the plan and actually wear it to the wedding, or look for a last minute replacement (or a belt!)</div>
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What do you think? Do you wear cocoon style garments or so you think this shape should be used solely for maternity wear?</div>
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Please tell me you would never ask a woman if she's pregnant because of what she wears!</div>
Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-6224149523725658792016-02-29T04:31:00.000-08:002016-02-29T04:34:52.648-08:002016 reSEWlutionsHi all!<br />
I know, we are two months into 2016, but during January I had the wedding on my mind so I postponed my new year resolutions till I get back to a regular routine. Considering I've just started the last week of the internal medicine rotation my routine is as normal as can be. The rotation in this department is considered the most demanding rotation of the year, and getting married mid-rotation had proven more difficult than I imagined. I'm happy that life is about to get less complicated starting next week, so I think it's time to get my reSEWlutions in order.<br />
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Since I started clinical rotations two months ago I noticed how I have become more attentive to what I wear, as well as what other students around me wear. I think we all try to be comfortable while still looking tidy and somewhat "grown-up". It's the first time I notice how much affected by fashion trends we all are. So my first reSEWlution for 2016 is to challenge my self with my makes rather than go for what mimics RTW choices. It may sound obvious, a lot of us sew in order to express ourselves and make unique garments, but lately I notice that I'm drawn to the patterns and sillahouettes that resemble what I'd find in chainstores. There is nothing wrong with this kind of inspiration of course, but it is less interesting to make something I could buy. At the same time I notice that I get the most complements over garments that resemble the latest trends in RTW. I like to talk about clothes and obviously don't mind the complements, but it's less interesting to talk about something that looks exactly like what I would find in the nearest H&M. I hope that in 2016 I'll make clothes that are more interesting to me and less " trendy".<br />
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Colette book club<br />
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I started to read the previous book from the book club and was on schedule to join the discussion, but unfortunately my Kindle screen broke and I missed the deadline. I finished the book two days ago and already started the next one on the list. I would like to join the discussion on this one, and stick with the routine they set. It's so nice to have someone else find all the good sewing-related books!<br />
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Make sure I stash enough notions<br />
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While I have a lot of fabric, I never seem to have enough thread / buttons / fusible making it impossible to spontaneously start my next project. This year I'll try to stash more notions so missing material won't prevent me from conquering the next project.<br />
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Commit to organise the stash<br />
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At this point I understand that stash organisation is not a one-time thing. Even when I find my system I will still have to rearrange it whenever I take a piece out, or add some scraps in (or new pieces of fabric!). I realise that the more I use up stash the bigger it gets, because the scraps take up so much space... I recently arranged all the fabric in boxes and would like to actively keep it organised. Additionally I would like to frequently take stock and get rid of scraps more often.<br />
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Invest in equipment that will make sewing woven material easier<br />
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I keep avoiding the woven fabric in my stash because pressing sleeves to achieve a professional look is difficult with my current set up. It never bothered me before, but the more experience I have the more attentive I become towards pressing and seam finish. I've been telling myself I should get a sleeve ham for a few years now, so 2016 is the year I invest in a few pressing tools!<br />
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That's it for now, let's hope 2016 will be full of fun, health and positivity!<br />
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<br />Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-47755233503518273162016-02-14T04:49:00.002-08:002016-02-14T05:16:14.226-08:00Alexandria Peg Trousers / Named - in velvet<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Here's to a new experience - I'm writing this post on my phone! My laptop battery is empty and there are no suitable plugs in this classroom. </div>
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I'm still waiting for our wedding pictures to arrive, so I can write a proper wedding dress post (or posts..) without waiting forever for the big reveal, but I'm very happy to inform I finished it on time! Truth be told, a friend had to cut the hem a few hours before the wedding while I was working on shortening D's button down shirt, but everything worked out perfectly and I was happy and comfortable in my hand made outfit.</div>
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No more than two days following the wedding I started binge-sewing all the knits that were waiting in my stash. The first project was this pair of Alexandria peg trousers. I bought this weird dotted light blue velvet fabric while fabric-shopping for the wedding outfit (along with the scuba knit <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2015/12/wedding-dress-1-and-linden-i-made-while.html" target="_blank">I made into a Linden</a> before starting with the dress), and cut them before the wedding. After <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2015/11/alexandria-peg-trousers-by-named.html" target="_blank">making my first Alexandria</a> I knew I wanted more pairs from this pattern, but being rather traditional with my pants choices I didn't want to try a patterned fabric. When I saw the velvet I thought it could be a nice opportunity to try a new-to-me fabric with the potential of creating something different and interesting to beef up my lounge-wear / weekend wardrobe.</div>
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Sewing this fabric was a bit tricky partially due to the stretch and drape that were difficult to control but mostly because the layers of the velvet kept shifting under the machine.</div>
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While very soft and stretchy, the fabric is quite thick and warm. The thickness means there's more fabric around the hips / waist area than I would have liked, and in retrospect I should have used thinner fabric for the pockets and maybe even for the waistband. </div>
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Unlike my previous version, due to the fabric's characteristics (as well as my general hastiness) the front pleats are not as tidy as should be. The outcome is looks like gathering rather than the neat two pleats the pattern calls for, although I didn't (intentionally) gathered the waistband.</div>
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Despite all the mishaps I like them more than I have imagined I would. These pants are shiny, drape well, fun and comfortable, and are something I imagine would be appropriate for a Disco party. Other people's opinions were less supportive - my cousins said the silhouette is awesome ( thanks Named!) but they would look better in a different fabric. I realize wearing shiny velvet pants is not trendy (right now) but I'm happy with the less-obvious choice of fabric. I will probably make this pattern again, but I would like to continue to explore the possibilities it holds without sticking with the trendy/ traditional/ RTW inspired fabric choices this pattern suits for. </div>
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I first wore them to my grandmother's 85th birthday, which was a very casual weekend event, along with my first Linden (unblogged) and Birkenstock clogs. Time will tell if the outside criticism will change my mind, or rather - I'll continue to enjoy them and everyone will follow.</div>
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what do you think? To much? Or just right?</div>
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<b>Notes:</b><br />
Like the previous version, I made a straight size 36 (my hips are ~88 but I prefer my clothes looser than the average person, I think). I made no changes to the pattern other than omitting the drawstring at the waist (because I don't have one currently... I think It's a great addition and will probably add some once I get the chance to buy it).<br />
Due to the 4-way stretch, I think I hemmed them using a dipper hem. the weight of the fabric causes the legs to twist some time, causing the diagonal lines in the pictures.<br />
I didn't interface anything (because I'm lazy) or pressed any of the seams (told you I was binge-sewing...!) resulting in some back-pockets floppiness I actually quite like.<br />
This version hits just below my navel, while the previous (woven) version seats lower at the waist. </div>
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Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-42308672922430256452016-01-09T09:23:00.001-08:002016-01-09T13:24:03.251-08:00Year In Review - 2015On the days leading to January 1st 2016 I looked back at 2015 and at first judged it as a VERY unsuccessful and unproductive year. It wasn't one of the best years of my life. I spent a lot of time and energy trying to finish the experimental stage of my pHD, and way too much time was spent worrying about the future. I worry too much, which never really helps but I still find it difficult to let go.<br />
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I don't know why I didn't realized it at first, but despite my subjective feelings, 2015 was indeed quite productive both in sewing and in real-life.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>KonMary </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">I started the KonMary project during April, but I'm not yet done with it. I'm slowly collecting shoe-boxes from everyone I know, and hopefully by the end of 2016 I'll be done. Despite the slow-going process the closet has been clean and tidy since April, which makes dressing up in the morning way more fun.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"> I never thought that if I throw out everything I dislike I may end up with too little, but apparently this could happen. During the first months after I threw out most of the items I didn't like I had very little left to wear. I don't miss the clothes I tossed (even not the hand-made ones that were a bit more difficult to give away), on the contrary I really enjoyed the free space in the closet, but since I love sewing and I needed more garments, the space is filling up quite fast. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Lounge Wear </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">On May I pledged to <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2015/05/me-made-may-2015-my-pledge.html" target="_blank">wear a me-made lounge garment twice a week.</a></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">This didn't work out quite well, as at that point I only had a few garments for lounging/ walking/ dancing/ sewing (please tell me I'm not the only one who can't sew with jeans), some were store-bought. Ever since May, I tried to find fabric and patterns to beef up my lounge wardrobe. I'm a sensitive person and very hyperactive so the moment I come home from work I immediately change into the most comfortable clothes I can find. Additionally you will never see me wearing anything restricting during weekends, nothing with zippers/ buttons, and usually not anything from a woven fabric unless it has a lot of ease. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Case in point, this is what I wore to dinner on Friday:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipFqre5cRKrlP5zs2awUekBGO-AXfmtBiONxbFzzz1H69hJGBB27oET03vMIXH6xEIgYJZrpI89SIXNQCXEotmiKXLEhl_DY60Am6szY710Tc_6TN5ghpdi9Oz2myS6N5lZNv0vRdpHut8/s1600/Linden_goto.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipFqre5cRKrlP5zs2awUekBGO-AXfmtBiONxbFzzz1H69hJGBB27oET03vMIXH6xEIgYJZrpI89SIXNQCXEotmiKXLEhl_DY60Am6szY710Tc_6TN5ghpdi9Oz2myS6N5lZNv0vRdpHut8/s1600/Linden_goto.jpg" /></a> </span><b> </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b> </b><span style="font-size: small;">My father was not too pleased with my outfit... I quite tastelessly paired the blue floral Linden with the black and white Go-To knit pants, but let me tell you - it felt great! Needless to say I need a few more options in my "easywear" wardrobe.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">New-to-me patterns</span></b></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">This year I enjoyed sewing more patterns than before. The Linden by Grainline is my current favorite; after hacking the Strathcona into a raglan I finally bought the Linden and immediately fell in love with the loose fit, but yet the body-conscious sillhouette. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYLenAELsj6_twVvm-yhjsN_TRiBbndGxRHRVyQndQRGma4Rdh7wwvD59VTwUmkhci3jfpHE_807ArOR9iR-LHS64LBtwUnsc5j2MRWLlpV4X0bfsJIDJUVIyU4mjOasNxs-qeXMNANhWP/s1600/Linden3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYLenAELsj6_twVvm-yhjsN_TRiBbndGxRHRVyQndQRGma4Rdh7wwvD59VTwUmkhci3jfpHE_807ArOR9iR-LHS64LBtwUnsc5j2MRWLlpV4X0bfsJIDJUVIyU4mjOasNxs-qeXMNANhWP/s1600/Linden3.jpg" /></a> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"> Above is my third Linden. Again, presenting one of my horrible lounge pants. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTmnTP2oz5BHw6EPn8F_x5ClC9yfyZhrp-wnxjCh6jcGqchiTmkE9gqpYXqEEXWBILqHLU7nimcTdcRoKElOf8V75o7OC26YuO_iN2aXx4x1SdK5iHrWcs8svVRcKPWFYi2H5SCe3jHsnL/s1600/Linden_moss.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTmnTP2oz5BHw6EPn8F_x5ClC9yfyZhrp-wnxjCh6jcGqchiTmkE9gqpYXqEEXWBILqHLU7nimcTdcRoKElOf8V75o7OC26YuO_iN2aXx4x1SdK5iHrWcs8svVRcKPWFYi2H5SCe3jHsnL/s1600/Linden_moss.png" /></a></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"> And again a Linden, this time with a Moss skirt. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoueE7NmW8OwzmKoPFu6TiWGVOPd5IXRd_XyLPoUrvfPnjJsNiJ98VbLn6vBhF98-_7ysFbC8kLknIXljk4nknL5Z5zGrRMJ9F83peiV0SSZvnivvlLy458-6j20pX8qOVFMoU7tXiYt5U/s1600/morris2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoueE7NmW8OwzmKoPFu6TiWGVOPd5IXRd_XyLPoUrvfPnjJsNiJ98VbLn6vBhF98-_7ysFbC8kLknIXljk4nknL5Z5zGrRMJ9F83peiV0SSZvnivvlLy458-6j20pX8qOVFMoU7tXiYt5U/s1600/morris2.jpg" /></a> </span></b></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b> </b><span style="font-size: small;">The Morris blazer on the above pictures wins the "most surprising make of 2015". I had the fabric in my stash for a year or so, it was bought with the Lady Skater dress in mind but I don't wear dresses so often and I already have two in a similar fabric (different color) so it waited in my stash. After the first Morris, I thought this heavy jersey fabric can make a cozy and "spicy" blazer and I'm happy with the result! </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">I enjoyed
trying out new patterns and indie designers, and I hope I'll continue to
explore new shapes and silhouettes in 2016 as well.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">I hope your 2016 is off to a good start! The first week of 2016 was also the first week of my internal medicine rotation, so I'm still socked and tired from the change in atmosphere and routine but I hope I'll enjoy the rest of this interesting (yet very demanding) rotation. An update on the wedding outfit will follow, I'm happy to say I'm sort of on schedule and will probably have a white thingy to wear by the beginning of February so things aren't too bad on that front. </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Have a great week!</span></span></span></span>Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-15377305643790783272015-12-26T09:15:00.001-08:002016-02-14T05:16:56.512-08:00Wedding dress #1 (and the Linden I made while procrastinating) <div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi all!</div>
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I'm glad to report that the pre-clinical-rotations-two-months-of-frontal-lectures-hell is behind me! I past the exam and my body (and mind) are slowly recovering. Sitting in class all day IS NOT FOR ME and I'm glad I'll never have to go through this again in my life.</div>
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<a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2015/09/on-fallwinter-wardrobe-that-should.html" target="_blank">As I mentioned before</a>, we are getting married in the beginning of February. We've been living together for several very happy years, so getting married and formalizing our relationship was not a surprising step for anyone. Therefor I naively thought that everyone will accept our opinions regarding the ceremony itself, and will let us hold it in a way that suits our lifestyle. I was wrong... Weddings in Israel are big (and expensive), the stadard is an evening wedding with dinner and a dance party (DJ included), in which guests are expected to give money as a present, to cover the costs of the party. Needless to say, this kind of celebration isn't really for me... but as the wedding ceremony is also a gift we give the families, we are doing what we are asked to do, while trying to fit it into our lifestyle as much as possible. </div>
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Having a "standard wedding" is difficult for me as my mother died when I was young, and nothing can make up for the fact my only wish for this happy occasion would be that she could witness it. therefore I tried as much as I could to push aside the traditions, the "should" and the "proper", and make this night about love and happiness in a less formal way. Unfortunately, as I wrote above, not all of my wishes were granted and for the past weeks I was just sad about this entire thing. </div>
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I know it makes very little sense, as I get to spend everyday with the love of my life, and one night in which I put other people's wills above mine will not change it. But I still struggle with letting go of the things that will not be as I wish, despite knowing I'll enjoy this night no matter what.</div>
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Anyway, the wedding dress and all that involves my appearance is one place were I can do whatever I want (within reason). The process of designing my outfit started with deciding about several topics:</div>
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<b>Do I want to make my own dress, rent it, or buy it?</b></div>
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Well, that was the easiest... I think that making my own dress will not only save money but will allow my to wear (almost) exactly what I have in mind. It will also spare me long hours of looking for an RTW dress, fitting sessions etc. Most importantly, the making of a garment is part of the experience in wearing it. I think I'll feel more "me" in a garment I spent time working on. <b> </b></div>
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<b>How much money am I willing to invest? Do I want to save money, or try working with high-end material?</b></div>
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I want to feel special and beautiful in my wedding dress (aren't we all...?), and it shouldn't look cheap. At the same time, this is a one-night garment, so I didn't want to invest a lot of money in fabric. I prefer to invest money on fabric for garments I'll wear more (such as high quality denim, that I already asked for my birthday). </div>
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<b>How much time do I want to invest in this project?</b></div>
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Nowadays sewing knits is all I want. The speedy work on the overlocker and the cozy result excite me. I have plenty of projects on my winter sewing list, and since winter-wear is my favorite to sew (and I would also like to sew a cascade coat this year), I don't want to spend all my free time on the wedding dress. Therefore, while I think dresses with lots of bead work and hand-sewn lace are amazing, it is probably not the project for me. </div>
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<b>What is the general style I'm going for? </b></div>
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There are probably one-million dresses I would enjoy wearing. <a href="http://www.popsugar.com/fashion/Carrie-Bradshaw-Style-Sex-City-8462951#photo-8462951" target="_blank">The waiting gown</a> from Sex and the City would probably be my top choice as an inspiration, while the <a href="https://www.preownedweddingdresses.com/dresses/view/158677/Vera-Wang-Bride-Wars-Dress-Size-10.html" target="_blank">Vera Wand dress from Brides Wars</a> is another one I always liked. However while I like this aesthetic I probably won't feel comfortable wearing such a big dress to this particular evening, so I started a <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/roniofec/wedding/" target="_blank">pinterest board</a> and realized I wanted something with less volume and more coverage. </div>
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At the end (of admittedly a very short search session) I decided to use the two-piece outfit from Rue De Seine as the inspiration (it's at the bottom of the board). </div>
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After a few weeks of procrastination I finely went fabric shopping with a friend. For the top I decided to use the <a href="http://www.wafflepatterns.com/products/pdf-sewing-pattern-women-high-neck-dress-snowball-size-34-42" target="_blank">snowball dress by Waffle patterns</a><span id="goog_1340694793">, the base layer would be made of cotton-sateen in off-white, and the top either from lace we bought or from a lace shirt I already have (depending on the amount of lace needed). The skirt is "just" a full circle skirt cinched at the waist, made out of three layers of white chiffon and one layer of lining in cream </span><span id="goog_1340694793"></span><span id="goog_1340694793">sateen. </span></div>
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<span id="goog_1340694793">I like the texture and pattern on the shirt I have so I hope I can use it for the dress (also, I got the shirt from my father's wife, and it feels special to integrate it into the dress)</span></div>
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<span id="goog_1340694793"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jL_2X8YBA-LMxcBsn8u8ZB39SNIYMtj-PraBndBAmqOGnj55_nLO2tPRpzTXsmg5SgyOoRn0o_IkwCNYtQIkqQB1iCHHqetRseMYHpA0mTZtKdMsKtoJm-uECxV7UwFgVa6yuRx8s_FM/s1600/lace.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jL_2X8YBA-LMxcBsn8u8ZB39SNIYMtj-PraBndBAmqOGnj55_nLO2tPRpzTXsmg5SgyOoRn0o_IkwCNYtQIkqQB1iCHHqetRseMYHpA0mTZtKdMsKtoJm-uECxV7UwFgVa6yuRx8s_FM/s1600/lace.jpg" /></a> </span><span id="goog_1340694794"></span></div>
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Before we went fabric shopping, D jokingly said I can buy as much fabric as I'd like, but he will lock all my non-wedding-related fabric until I finish the dress, as I have no plan B and the wedding is getting closer (I don't really have time working on the dress during the week, and we still have to make all the decorations, since no made-in-China-by-children decorations will be part of our wedding...). Obviously Linden sweatshirts are made faster than the time it takes to persuade me to confront 20 meters of white slippery fabric, so this one was made immediately:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibosH0xM551pLUdK62BgcCshBoZPA_msjIftsv79fjn5lfr8cIE5zDr6b8NeVWCzSfovL_Mz12961ddu-f2QKv5-kYZBBJ1q9cIs_uzCyolbgKwbPBTDs19UcJVY13dIZMViz7PxyZXL6l/s1600/Linden_4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibosH0xM551pLUdK62BgcCshBoZPA_msjIftsv79fjn5lfr8cIE5zDr6b8NeVWCzSfovL_Mz12961ddu-f2QKv5-kYZBBJ1q9cIs_uzCyolbgKwbPBTDs19UcJVY13dIZMViz7PxyZXL6l/s1600/Linden_4.jpg" /></a></div>
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(Worn here with my <a href="http://gotopatterns.com/products/go-to-knit-pants-for-women" target="_blank">Go-To Knit Pants.</a> I know I promised a review but I'm still not sure what I think of this pattern). This is my 4th Linden, this one is made from Scuba knit I bought along with the aforementioned ridiculous amount of white fabric, and put immediately into good use. I made straight size 2 based on my measurements, and surprisingly my broad shoulders don't need extra room. <b>Please note: Linden comes with 1/4" seam allowance!</b></div>
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After finishing my Linden I was ready to conquer the piles of white fabric, which meant I had a "white Christmas" after all! The results of this first sewing session will follow shortly. </div>
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Till then, Happy Christmas and may you all have a fabulous end to 2015!</div>
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Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-24068723046245275462015-11-07T12:38:00.000-08:002016-02-14T05:16:29.678-08:00Alexandria Peg Trousers by NamedHi All!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHfeMv_ynwJC07MXdpKgWMSmffFUtzXh9doDKHQv-SzSNivujWpNPVaD_x0vy1S6Q0G4ZdvuEqtRz8EGxkjHH_zTu77NEJVD0Kiajpx3l2CCQXrbpEebK18wuawxvjY0BidPTixE9yV8K0/s1600/IMG_20151010_160434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHfeMv_ynwJC07MXdpKgWMSmffFUtzXh9doDKHQv-SzSNivujWpNPVaD_x0vy1S6Q0G4ZdvuEqtRz8EGxkjHH_zTu77NEJVD0Kiajpx3l2CCQXrbpEebK18wuawxvjY0BidPTixE9yV8K0/s640/IMG_20151010_160434.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Med-school started four weeks ago, and it is not as bad as I anticipated. We had the first test two weeks ago and it went well, despite the fact I spent the last weeks on-and-off sick. I hope things will slowly settle into a routine that will allow me to study, work, sew, run, and spend time with my friends and family. Actually today was the first time I ran this week, as I spent most of it fighting a cold - and I had so much fun!<br />
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I'm looking for patterns and ideas for my light workout / lounge wear wardrobe. In the weekend before med-school started, instead of finishing off my responsibilities to work, I made up the<a href="http://www.namedclothing.com/product/alexandria-peg-trousers/" target="_blank"> Alexandria Peg Trousers by Named</a>. This was my first time sewing with a Named pattern, and judging by the success of this garment - it won't be the last time I buy a pattern from them. I was looking for a trousers pattern for a woven fabric that is casual and comfortable. I like the general aesthetic of the Alexandria, but I didn't know if it could work with my body type - the model in the pictures is stick thin, and I was afraid the pleats won't do me any good. However despite my concerns I couldn't let go of this pattern and eventually bought it and made it up immediately!<br />
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I'm SO happy with this make! I have no idea what fabric I used - I just bought something black and thin with good drape. The fabric is soft to the touch, and the trousers are so comfortable! I even wore them for a short hike we took:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBCwUIv3b7fHvWt35ZB-q4zkhBICZZ9AoP1BfhyphenhyphenRBFADppcrUGvYONgFZRTOqKHkMw-5If7jBYJk7YZCHqtVgdqRHVGAuL4BsMef9LdZqgy5g_lQv7dKkAV3BRlP39NPNYX_jByf8bqc4R/s1600/IMG_20151017_111255378_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBCwUIv3b7fHvWt35ZB-q4zkhBICZZ9AoP1BfhyphenhyphenRBFADppcrUGvYONgFZRTOqKHkMw-5If7jBYJk7YZCHqtVgdqRHVGAuL4BsMef9LdZqgy5g_lQv7dKkAV3BRlP39NPNYX_jByf8bqc4R/s640/IMG_20151017_111255378_HDR.jpg" width="358" /></a></div>
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I wore them with my hemlock tee, and my UV protection sleeves. Black is very difficult to photograph, I'm sorry for the lack of details, but hey - you get a good idea of the view from the Jerusalem mountains :)<br />
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As it's the first time I sew with a Named pattern, I was a bit worried about the fit. Based on my hip measurement (about 90 cm) I was between 34 and 36, but I do have a very full seat so I sized up and after a quick muslin decided I was good to go. I'm happy with the fit of the trousers, they are loose fitting but the length and the tapering of the pant leg make them more appropriate for casual wear.<br />
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The instructions are great, and sewing was fun and smooth. The only part I had difficulty with was pressing the seam allowance of the pockets. The pockets are curved, so I had to fight with the iron. Next time I'll make a cardboard template I can use as a guide.<br />
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I do need another one of these in my wardrobe, possibly something a bit warmer as the weather here is getting colder. I have a light-grey flannel that may be a good candidate for my next attempt... although I doubt I can beat the success of these trousers - I wear them all the time and I think they are one of my favorite makes of all times!<br />
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In addition to having so much fun with this pattern, I'm also very happy I've discovered a "new to me" indie sewing company. I already have some of their patterns on my wishlist, one of them is the <a href="http://www.namedclothing.com/product/rene-maxi-skirt/?lang=en" target="_blank">Rene Maxi Skirt</a> pattern, to be used for my wedding skirt.<br />
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<b>Have you sewn with Named before? I'm looking for information regarding the Wyome jeans pattern, I would like to try it as my next Named advernture... </b><br />
<br />Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-55351075041658134512015-10-14T09:21:00.000-07:002015-10-14T13:08:24.862-07:00Difficult days in Jerusalem<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi all,</div>
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Med-school started again 4 days ago, it is not as bad as I anticipated, but I find it difficult to juggle my research work and med-school responsibilities. I'm sure I'll settle back into a routine in a few weeks, probably things will calm down on the school-front once I'm done with the first exam (10 days from now).</div>
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Unfortunately things around here are once again unstable. in the past two weeks we experienced daily terror attacks around the city (mostly stabbing, but there were shootings as well), meaning leaving the house is a bit dangerous, and going to center city is not an option. Public transportation is also less-safe so we need to juggle, be careful, and be at home/university and off the streets as much as possible. </div>
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You can imagine how difficult it is... I'm still going to dance class twice a week, and I'm getting my sewing mojo back (I hope) but it is still very difficult. </div>
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During the writing of this post, there was another terror attack in the central bus station (a few kilometers from our house). The rule is "if you hear one ambulance, it's fine. If you hear three - it's a terror attack. <br />
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I guess I'm a "stress organizer" because the stress from the upcoming academic year along with the general stress we currently experience, pushed me to continue with the KonMary project, this time organizing my stash. While I did the "throwing out" part in April, the current organization system was not working.<br />
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Initially keeping my fabric rolled was a good system, but with time it got messy and the scraps and leftovers overshadowed the material I'm more likely to work with on a daily basis. So instead, I chose to use boxes and fold the material the same way I fold my clothes. I still don't have enough cardboard boxes, so I'm only half-way through. I hope I can find enough in the next couple of days, so I can continue with it during the weekend. <br />
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To raise my spirits and make me feel as if I was "getting things done" I tried to finish one UFO: the Morris blazer was the first!</div>
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I started it a long time ago (immediately after the pattern was released), but my overlocker had some problems and had to be fixed, so it took me this long to finish it. (Worn over an Archer shirt)</div>
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In addition I made a second version of the Morris blazer (which I wore for the first day of school over my <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2014/08/strathcona-t-shirt-for-me.html" target="_blank">beloved Strathcona</a>). As I can't go buy fabric or notions for projects, I'm trying to make things for which I have everything already in the stash. The Morris blazer needs no notions, so it's an easy choice:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHx9BuhIYpkK6e81NGhSV-T2wexUsIjW3M6s04d6LTaZG06_gY0DmxWAMzrGjIErHopE6E2r8Mv-Ys6n0p6cH0ImKDfdJv3zghL7rLFl8QWh97KavfcCwKRdfPR16pWtoSo0_efTxScbVh/s1600/IMG_1163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHx9BuhIYpkK6e81NGhSV-T2wexUsIjW3M6s04d6LTaZG06_gY0DmxWAMzrGjIErHopE6E2r8Mv-Ys6n0p6cH0ImKDfdJv3zghL7rLFl8QWh97KavfcCwKRdfPR16pWtoSo0_efTxScbVh/s640/IMG_1163.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately I have some issues with the overlocker again. I'll try to fix it myself, but if not I'll have to wait until things calm down here, because the Bernina shop is located in central Jerusalem, and I can't go there right now...</div>
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Both blazers are size 2, graded to 4 in the shoulders. I have access fabric around the chest, so I think next time I'll grade the shoulders back to 2, or do a small bust adjustment (I did it on the Scout, on which I had the same problem with the fabric and it helped). Anyway until I find a solution to the overlocker problem, I'll have to stick with wovens.<br />
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<b>What should I do next, another Archer perhaps? finally try the Aster pattern from colette? </b></div>
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<b>I'll keep writing about my makes, and continue with updates on the situation from our tiny spot in the middle east. I do hope that this stinky situation will be over soon. </b></div>
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Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-49538070159587532742015-09-22T00:04:00.001-07:002015-09-23T12:37:25.753-07:00On fall/winter wardrobe (that should include a wedding dress) and going back to med-schoolHi all!<br />
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It's always so difficult to start a new post after not writing here for so long.<br />
In the past few months I've been mostly working on projects for our home, continuing with my <a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Life-Changing-Magic-Tidying-Decluttering/dp/1607747308" target="_blank">Konmary</a> project and trying to organize our place in a way that will help me feel comfortable and happy during the the next year of med-school. Additionally, I had to finish all experiments for the PHD, and then we took off to Scotland where we traveled for a month. I was, and in many ways still am, exhausted.<br />
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I'm studying towards an MD/PHD degree, so in two weeks time I'll be back in med-school after 3 years of research. I don't have the right words to express how it makes me feel. I want to be a doctor-researcher, but my years in pre-med were a total misery. I was alone, and lonely, in a new city. I was cold most of the time, I felt I didn't belong and that I wasn't good enough. I had very little guidance and I was lost. 6 years have past since this first week in pre-med, and I'm in a totally different place in life now. I'm in a stable relationship (that we will formalize this winter!), I have my PHD project that I love, and most importantly I have learned that some of the difficult things I had to cope with in life, were not things I deserved and where not my fault. The thing is - It's very difficult to change our habits, and learn to expect different things from the future despite a certain past. Specifically I find it difficult to imagine having a good time next year, as my memories are based on past experience that was so bad.<br />
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It is very difficult to be outside looking in, and as the sewing community is indeed a place in which I feel belong, I would like to participate! However, as this blog is public, and as pictures from here are quite up the "google image" search of my name (found out the bad way), I never know how personal I would like this place to be.<br />
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HOWEVER after reading <a href="http://www.astitchingodyssey.com/2015/09/loving-person-not-their-gender.html" target="_blank">this post</a> from A Stitching odyssey I thought there was no way I'm keeping my radio silence. If they can write so openly about such a life-changing journey, I can be open about my fear from the near future :)<br />
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I'm trying to come up with a list of garments I would like to sew and wear in the upcoming months. It will take me a few more hours to finalize the list and understand what patterns / materials I need to gather, and I'll keep you posted!<br />
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I'll leave you with a picture of my new, finished Morris blazer! worn over an Archer shirt, with my "proper" black denim (RTW). I bought this pattern immediately upon its release (that never happens...) but due to some overlocker issues I just finished it yesterday!<br />
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<br />Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-30223635709137819322015-05-27T15:41:00.003-07:002015-05-28T02:07:03.231-07:00On accomplishments and judgment against them<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Some days I know who I am, some days I think I have no clue. </div>
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Some days I am confident with my life choices while on other days criticism really hurts me. </div>
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We had a long weekend, and I wanted to deep-clean the apartment. I LOVE our apartment, it's the first place in my adult life I call HOME. I want to spend time (and money) making it prettier and more "us". Rented apartments in Israel are usually kept in a bad condition. Despite the (very) high prices it's not uncommon to have lousy and old facilities. When we moved in two years ago we cleaned the place thoroughly, painted the walls, hung shelves etc, but we didn't do much with the bathroom since it was all too much and we didn't want to start painting both walls and ceiling. </div>
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It was fine for two years, but after the winter the bathroom needed a face-lift. So I bought hydrogen peroxide (diluted it to 3%) to get rid of the mold, and gave the washing machine its annual treatment with vinegar and baking soda. As it wasn't enough, I also applied new grout on the bathroom floor.</div>
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I felt like a super-hero!</div>
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All happy and stinky I went to a family dinner, and proudly shared my afternoon act of magic. The first reaction was "oh, you have too much free time!", followed by another key line "but it's a rented apartment, why would you go through all the trouble?"</div>
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This reaction crushed me. MY HOME is so important to me. Coming back from work to a place I can call HOME is a feeling nothing can replace. having a place that I love, knowing that most of it is my own creation, this is something I care so much for. Being surrounded by items that spark joy is precious. And having it all dismissed by someone implying my time is better spent doing other things is hurtful. </div>
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I didn't know what to do, so I went back HOME and went all out: painted the bathroom (walls and ceiling! primer and paint!), scrubbed the ceramic with vinegar to get rid of all the limescale, took the sinks apart to clean the pipes, removed the carpet from the bedroom floor (my landlord approved) and more. The bathroom looks amazing, and three days from now I'll take myself on a date to the flee market to find accessories. Every shower I now take is different and refreshing. And I have myself to thank for it. </div>
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But I'm still sad. I choose to live a different life. I have a "normal" day-job I will not replace for anything in the world, I think what I do is important. But at the same time I feel that sewing my own clothes, using ecological cleaning supplies, recycling and reusing is my way of living a balanced life, feeling that I'm a positive force in the world, that I do more good than bad. I also choose to spend my (hard-earned) money on dance classes, trips, fabric and craft supplies. Should I be ashamed?</div>
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When somebody dismisses my choices, saying I'm wasting my time with all this, there still is a little voice in my head thinking that he might be right. </div>
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Should I do something else? Be somebody else? Am I a young idealist that still hasn't grown out of it? (I'm 27, will I change?)</div>
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and most importantly - am I alone with my point of view on life?</div>
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Did anyone ever insulted you, laughed at you for sewing and DIYing? How should I react if/when it happens again? </div>
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Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-37941971327970480512015-05-18T00:06:00.002-07:002015-05-18T00:07:52.186-07:00Me Made May - a celebration of me-mades (?)<div style="text-align: justify;">
I am one of these people who anticipate May since March. For the past few years May was a month for celebrating all the self made garments and reflecting on the sewing process in the year that passed. May is also the month during which blogs discuss broader aspects of sewing rather than publishing only posts with new finished projects. So this year I anticipated reading and watching pictures capturing the dynamic aspects of clothes and how they work in real-life, outside the "finished garment" posts. I anticipated reading posts about the successes and failures in sewing, and how these experiences affect the "to-sew" lists. </div>
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I was a bit disappointing reading that many of the big bloggers decided to ditch this experience. I know the sewing community develops over time and it is true that many of us wear our me-mades on a daily basis anyway. But circumscribing me-mades to finished-garment posts takes the point out of making and writing about our sewing, and makes sewing similar to RTW where the only job a garment has is to look good and picture-ready. </div>
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The lack of documentation in MMM15 reflects a bigger change in sewing blogs over the past two years - the easier patterns are to sew, and the greater frequency with which patterns are released <a href="http://www.madalynne.com/fast-fashion-fast-sewing" target="_blank">makes sewing more like fast fashion</a>. Maddie posted her take on that exactly one yer ago, during May. This change is also apparent in the photo shoots presenting finished garments - sewing photography becomes as important as sewing itself. Much like in RTW.</div>
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The growing sewing community is amazing, and it is because of these changes that we are able to sew most of our clothes. The quality and detailed information that comes with the new patterns helps us all conquer sewing garments we would otherwise skip such as <a href="http://www.store.closetcasefiles.com/products/ginger-skinny-jeans-pattern" target="_blank">jeans</a>. But these changes could also make us less aware of the actual job our me-mades have in the real world, which is to be comfortable and pretty outside the settings of the photo-shoots and blog posts.</div>
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I wish that while the community continues to grow and new patterns are released, we will remember to reflect on the process more often and continue the discussion over garments long after they were first photographed. </div>
Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-55243259161201395482015-05-17T09:11:00.000-07:002015-09-21T12:19:32.217-07:00Me Made May 2015 - 2nd week<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi all!</div>
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I was better at documenting my outfits this week, and since I like reading round up posts I thought I'll contribute with my own. I think when all results are shown together trends are starting to emerge from the data. If it works for day-job science it could work for hobby-science as well, so here we go:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Wy23TW0ufghm0xJSxtsx2RmK4aqdFfGll8ZyW0V2LPnT5Ua7HqSvlzTgj5P7xzzb-dAzO9gBSwvHwQwkdnPEz9N-XFuzWzrjfpn6w3EXadQYMYx-WcHDMsKC0h8wuLipb2G6DJJDkcua/s1600/IMG_20150509_195046964(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Wy23TW0ufghm0xJSxtsx2RmK4aqdFfGll8ZyW0V2LPnT5Ua7HqSvlzTgj5P7xzzb-dAzO9gBSwvHwQwkdnPEz9N-XFuzWzrjfpn6w3EXadQYMYx-WcHDMsKC0h8wuLipb2G6DJJDkcua/s640/IMG_20150509_195046964(1).jpg" width="358" /></a></div>
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I made the above top a week ago, the sleeves are sewn front-to-back but I don't really mind. This is a Scout tee from grainline studio, but I altered the side seams for a more fitted silhouette. I also did a small-bust-adjustment, this pattern is drafted for a B cup and I'm AA so it was necessary. Since I'm as flat as a board I have no trouble putting it on, even in a woven fabric. worn here with my worn-out RTW jeans and fitflops. From the mess behind me it appears it was either early in the morning or late at night. The past week was busy and passed real fast, especially since I was still tired from the work-trip the week before. </div>
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Above is my self-drafted striped tshirt, worn last Thursday. It was still cold so I wore an RTW jacket (that I bought 11 years ago in GAP during my first visit to NYC) and black RTW loose fitting jeans (bought 6 years ago in Old Navy, NYC). </div>
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It was my first attempt with a long-sleeved variation of the pattern. The sleeves are a bit wide but I like the fabric so I wear it a lot. </div>
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Friday, another Scout tee in viscose and the same RTW black jeans. All seams are french seams as I always do with wovens, but since the fabric on this one is a bit sheer I also faced all hems with self bias binding (sleeve hems included). I think I'll continue with faced hems on wovens, it's nice that the pattern is very simple but I can play with the details and finishes. </div>
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Saturday, another Scout tee and blue Ultimate Trousers. I wore the pants before hemming to check the fit and at the end of the day lowered the front waistline in about an inch, as I felt as if it was cutting my circulation when I sat. The fabric has NO give and I'm used to more ease in my clothes so it's a change. I can't do a split in those pants... but apparently I can easily climb a ladder as evidenced by our successful mulberries picking day. I'll save the splits for another pair of pants. </div>
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I'm still experimenting with the pattern and I have a way to go, but this is a (heavily) modified size 10. I narrowed the side seams to size 8 and then shaved the side curves off. I always thought I was a pear shape but I guess I'm not. I also used a smaller seam allowance at the side seams at the waist, but took a wedge off the center back. I'm happy with the fit of those, but would like to have a more flared leg opening on my next version. Also this pair has an exposed metal zipper instead of the recommended hidden zipper. </div>
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Sunday, at the ugly lab environment. (Work week in Israel is Sunday-Thursday, don't mistake me for a workaholic). </div>
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My self drafted knit top, the same pattern used for the striped tshirt from Thursday, crop variation. One of my favorite garments, worn over an RTW black tank and RTW jeans. This crop top was one of my first makes on the overlocker about a year ago, and I wish I had more of this fabric so I could make a longer version as well. The fabric is so soft and easy to wear on hot summer days, and to my eyes the shibori looks like clouds, making me feel free and energetic. </div>
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5 minutes after arriving home this is what I looked like:</div>
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I didn't forget the lounge wear part of my pledge. I change clothes the minute I get back home, this time I jumped into my red fleece pants. I like them a lot and wear them during the winter all the time, but it's 27 degrees today, I should have an alternative for summer!</div>
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From this documentation it's very clear that I have a preference to loose fitting garments irrespective of the temperature. Skinny jeans are around for a few years now, but I only care for loose fitting "boyfriend" type silhouettes. I know there's a rule saying that if you wear wide pants you should wear tight top, but as evidenced by my (crappy) selfies I ignore it. I like to move a lot and I hate anything that restricts my movements so I'll try to focus on looser pants from now on. The Ultimates could be a good path to follow, maybe I can add a back yoke and draft my way towards a proper jeans variation without the negative ease (they are drafted with 1" of ease, which is the minimal amount for me to feel good in my clothes). </div>
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Another conclusion is that I should focus my fabric quests on lounge wear material, to be used with the "go-to knit pants" I already tried. </div>
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This Me-Made-May proves very effective! I hope you are all enjoying this month as well,</div>
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Roni</div>
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Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-48794014390642648612015-05-10T11:06:00.000-07:002015-05-11T10:55:25.312-07:00Are you ashamed with your RTW purchases?Hi all!<br />
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I'm 75% done with my KonMary project. I gave away so many things that I'm lacking some essentials at this point. I started organizing and tiding my stuff more than a month ago, but the process is still on-going as I keep giving away items I don't like anymore, never liked (but got as presents), or simply getting rid of things that are too worn/used to hold on to.<br />
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As I'm letting go of things, I understand I need to replace some essential garments. For instance my winter coat has seen better days (also I always hated it, got it from my sister and never enjoyed wearing it) and in the past two winters didn't fight the rain as it should. I gave it away, but had to buy a new one. The same goes with "formal shoes" (my previous pair was lost by the airline company) and the list goes on.<br />
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The list actually goes on longer than I anticipated. I started writing down all the items I need to replace/ make/ buy, and am slowly working my way through it. However I'm surprised by how ashamed I feel whenever I need/ want to purchase an item of clothing. From the moment I write it down to the moment I actually buy it a year can pass. That's a regular for me, But at this moment some things should not be postponed anymore. Summer is just around the corner and the number of simple tees I have for walking/ lounging can't last even a week. <br />
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are you always trying to justify purchases? trying to avoid them? feeling ashamed with your material needs? <br />
<br />Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-75725403794519506622015-05-02T09:51:00.000-07:002015-05-02T09:57:10.517-07:00Me-Made-May 2015 - My pledge!Hi all!<br />
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I know may has started two days ago, but I couldn't decide on the right words for this year's pledge. Last year I went with the regular pledge of "one me-made-a-day" but I find I wear my everyday me-mades anyway, and I don't particularly mind wearing all RTW for a day, if it fits me and my schedule. Since I have older RTW that I still like, I don't see much point in retiring them for a month just for the sake of wearing solely me-made fashion.<br />
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Thinking about my wardrobe for the past few weeks proved that the areas in which I'm lacking enough options (at least options that are legit to step out of the house in) are lounge wear and "walking wear". I tend to go on long walks to clear my mind, and I don't like wearing running clothes while I walk. I still haven't found the best "walking outfit" but given I threw out most of my old ratty tshirts during my KonMary journey, I do need to invest more energy and sewing time in finding the best option. Currently I thing the <a href="http://gotopatterns.com/products/go-to-knit-pants-for-women" target="_blank">go-to knit pants</a> show some promise, but luckily I have May to help me empirically test them! <br />
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So my official pledge:<br />
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<b><i> 'I, Roni Arbel of Wardrobe Histology, sign up
as a participant of Me-Made-May '15. I endeavour to
wear a me-made lounge garment at least twice a week for the duration of may. Additionally I will wear at least 1 me-made garment 5 days a week for the duration of May 2015. </i></b><br />
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As may has already started, I'm leaving you with a dirty-mirror selfie of my newest Strathcona, which I love despite the obvious plaid-fail, worn over a Scout tee (I tried to match the plaid over the shoulder seams and forgot about everything else. Also the back of it is in a completely different fabric because I ran out of plaid. I should call it "The Stratchona of All Mistakes").<br />
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Can you tell I like it? Also, I'm flying tonight to a conference, once I'm back I'll share my (me-made) traveling wardrobe. I hope I made the right choices!<br />
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<i> </i><b><i> </i></b>Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-3232766862728344912015-04-30T12:49:00.000-07:002015-05-19T02:48:15.876-07:00A sense of Self<div style="text-align: justify;">
There are other things I want to write about. My me-made-May pledge is one of them, as May is only two days away and I'm not yet sure how to finalize my pledge. I have some finished garments to show, and patterns I would like to discuss, and a few meters of fabric that I purchased and can't wait till I'm able to wear, and a Morris blazer in process. And I'm also going to a conference and would like to share my me-made wardrobe decisions and...</div>
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Despite all the sewing-related thoughts I have throughout the day, I haven't stitched a seam in a few days. Life has the tendency to explode on me from time to time, and when it happens it's chaotic and tiring and results in me feeling a great loss, as if I have lost some sense of self.</div>
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Graduate school has its ups and downs. Few months ago I was stuck in an endless tunnel of experiments that just don't work. Also during the war the MRI system I work with was down (due to safety reasons) and I lost precious time. I had no energy and no motivation and felt like the entire world was against me (the entire world, with the exception of my partner, best friends, and pHD supervisor - this is actually a large group!). Lately things are looking different. I'm not sure yet whether my results are enough, but I'm feeling a change of pace and also the ability to look back and have different perspective on things.</div>
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However when things are chaotic and I don't sew as much as I would have liked I always worry that it always will by like that. That the pace will not slow down, that I will not regain my sewing energy, and that the fabric I love will never be made into a complete garment (rather than the pile of UFOs I currently have).</div>
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That fear is taking up more time than the time it takes to finally sew the binding into that last Strathcona or stitch the waistband to my newest Moss skirt, but it still holds me back. Mostly I'm afraid that my sense of self is depended on so many different things, and given that a perfect life balance is not realistic I always have to leave part of me neglected, that part of "me" that belongs to the activity I have no energy for.</div>
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Thins change all the time, life is dynamic. Achievements are counted in years and decades, not in the couple of hours it takes to sew a t-thirt. I know all that, and yet when I can't have it all I find myself searching for that sense of self that was left neglected on that lost piece of puzzle.</div>
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Is sewing part of your definition of "self"? How do you feel if you don't get to sew for longer than you would have liked? and what will you make once you finally are able to turn the machine back on?</div>
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Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-22225740670673656162015-04-24T06:07:00.000-07:002015-04-24T06:07:21.449-07:00Strathcona by Thread Theory - endless possibilities <div style="text-align: justify;">
Hi all!</div>
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I know Matt and Morgan from Thread Theory have a discount on their <a href="http://threadtheory.ca/collections/patterns/products/strathcona" target="_blank">Strathcona pattern </a>and since I've made this pattern many times I thought I'd share my versions. While this pattern is designed for men, my first make resulted in one of my <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2014/08/strathcona-t-shirt-for-me.html" target="_blank">favorite loose-fitting shirts ever</a> and many versions followed. Some are still in progress, waiting for mojo (=I can't bring myself to cut the welts, as you'll see below) or for a change of thread color on the overlocker. While I've never blogged about these makes, I did try to take some pictures. Some pictures are rather old, and some are selfies in front or our mirror (dirty-mirror selfies used to be legit blog pics a few years ago!), but it will have to do.</div>
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Following my first try, I used the only knit fabric in my stash at the time to make this version: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7B87ECP8plW3xGHQXs6v2pvTVjjN6PGG7uY8ZLJKWt_2BoH42rjIo0darh7ZYbnRnagopzizZ4YIUvNF4zydAO2ynyiQDmAF2amB3re5TdQHYFWXsgc3Qf52u6h0VydppjExaWhr6nAJ/s1600/blue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7B87ECP8plW3xGHQXs6v2pvTVjjN6PGG7uY8ZLJKWt_2BoH42rjIo0darh7ZYbnRnagopzizZ4YIUvNF4zydAO2ynyiQDmAF2amB3re5TdQHYFWXsgc3Qf52u6h0VydppjExaWhr6nAJ/s1600/blue.jpg" height="568" width="640" /></a></div>
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The fabric was bought to make D a Strathcona but I really wanted to make another version for myself and the only garment he ever asked me to make him is a button down shirt (I'm waiting for a pattern so D is still waiting for a shirt), so I went for it. This version is still un-hemmed but I wear it all the time. I added sleeve bands and narrowed the sleeves, and I like the puffy look of it. I started with size M but changed the shoulders and narrowed both the back and the front, so I have no idea what size it is now. D is <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2014/09/the-dont-wait-for-perfection-denim.html" target="_blank">wearing his jeans version of the Jedediah pattern</a>, btw. </div>
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I also played with the back neckline, tried to lower it considerably but the end result is more of a low boat neck rather than the design I was going for: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hfFkJFGWogLxfaQdfd2HU7kcaGc00n8RhRq-_YPOqgN4hveoAzTgeL21oBRpQeVkdbVPx4Ds7UXPze6YR8fn7nSc4MpqMp6pn1q5_ziy4GGqrwFsjcJ2UNClIhbc6ZEXPl8YRnMW4jsN/s1600/blue2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hfFkJFGWogLxfaQdfd2HU7kcaGc00n8RhRq-_YPOqgN4hveoAzTgeL21oBRpQeVkdbVPx4Ds7UXPze6YR8fn7nSc4MpqMp6pn1q5_ziy4GGqrwFsjcJ2UNClIhbc6ZEXPl8YRnMW4jsN/s1600/blue2.jpg" height="536" width="640" /></a></div>
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Even though I wanted a lower back neckline I still like the end result because it's low enough to be irregular but high enough so the bra doesn't show. The pictures were taken during a hike we took, so they demonstrate how well this tshirt fits in my wardrobe. </div>
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Following this successful experiment I went on and made another one: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoUnwP0J4UhgVTRJDN23_JKwPvpzZ7aSVebFBV2xHe_vRhCrP9dC6TnUlhUZcvnPDa0RhO9qoozcxcPCEwDzVvfPnNSSkuoS37EEbdD91OR51I1dChPEwIDvoCnIUeaIElAE8eVsYqerq/s1600/black_white.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoUnwP0J4UhgVTRJDN23_JKwPvpzZ7aSVebFBV2xHe_vRhCrP9dC6TnUlhUZcvnPDa0RhO9qoozcxcPCEwDzVvfPnNSSkuoS37EEbdD91OR51I1dChPEwIDvoCnIUeaIElAE8eVsYqerq/s1600/black_white.jpg" height="640" width="452" /></a></div>
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I tried to avoid unfortunate pattern placement, but got into some trouble when I realized the pattern was completely off grain. It took me a while to identify the problem, it appears that the vertical and horizontal lines don't meet in exactly right angle. As a result I couldn't win this game and ended up with a weird pattern going diagonally. I got used to it after a while, and people don't seem to notice it anyway. Both tshirts are in constant rotation and have the perfect silhouette for dance lessons (I dance flamenco). </div>
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At this point the weather started to change and the days became colder (yep... It was 6 months ago). Considering I had only a few winter clothes (have no idea how this happened) I had become an overlocker monster and started sewing knits as if my life depended on it. I went to the textile district with the sole goal of purchasing enough knit fabric to create a variety of winter clothes so I can lengthen my laundry cycle (my life-goal is 2 weeks, currently at 10 days so I'm getting there!). I wanted to play with the Strathcona and see how it would look in different types of fabric, and also expend the variety of materials with which I work. For the next make I tried a sweater knit in purple, and the result is still one of my favorite garments and is in constant rotation:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn3d7cpxBsqtpBJ8q6KAdTgG6hic8U4Q9h9X54axkUaTmRxQUIK95z8Ac7hV9n61rDHgOmsnEaYQaD_Cp_mPuR3PkFHoKb8pmshTOxJrcxF7qMJPur-pYklWAzIvEAaC9sLAaKm9bE-DlJ/s1600/purple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn3d7cpxBsqtpBJ8q6KAdTgG6hic8U4Q9h9X54axkUaTmRxQUIK95z8Ac7hV9n61rDHgOmsnEaYQaD_Cp_mPuR3PkFHoKb8pmshTOxJrcxF7qMJPur-pYklWAzIvEAaC9sLAaKm9bE-DlJ/s1600/purple.jpg" height="640" width="452" /></a></div>
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Worn here with my moss skirt, a garment I finished ages ago but never written about, and secret pajamas in the form of fleece leggings. Other accessories are a grumpy face and tired eyes, it was cold, early in the morning, and a work-day, so... I'm not giant, btw, our fridge is rather small. I love sleeves in unusual lengths so for this version I used the original sleeve length of the Strathcona, which is super long for my frame. I added cuffs and I like the extra material bunching around my wrists. The cuffs also help in preventing wind from freezing me on my way to work so it's a win!</div>
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After yet another successful version I wanted to push it, test if I could hack the pattern and create raglan sleeves. </div>
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The first result of this experiment is this grey sweatshirt (if you look close enough you'll notice I'm wearing it over the purple version, and a red version which was a fail):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMgHpEBX8dnMdtaMcZuN78ZslXvBXcWOyckVPugbf2ZnfR1KM-bCDStnDnh_pd8xmaFdn8nIoMmgv_AMNjnOxbdHWZRahClZtjdSVu9qa8M5q_CbHxzT2ELuYMEVjhCGJ60Uo9BJSvAAY1/s1600/grey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMgHpEBX8dnMdtaMcZuN78ZslXvBXcWOyckVPugbf2ZnfR1KM-bCDStnDnh_pd8xmaFdn8nIoMmgv_AMNjnOxbdHWZRahClZtjdSVu9qa8M5q_CbHxzT2ELuYMEVjhCGJ60Uo9BJSvAAY1/s1600/grey.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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When I first tried it on, I felt I was wearing an armor rather than the cuddly grey sweatshirt I was going for and I didn't know if I'll keep it or give it away. After 3 months of constant wear the fabric had softened considerably, and I finally hemmed it. The fabric is a bit strange: it has almost no stretch (except for the mechanical stretch of the knit), and it unravels a bit which is very unusual for a knit fabric. </div>
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To test the raglan again I tried another version with sweater knit:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBxeQIFhkUH7gG39t_Th8iBmyeMILopGQ72RRVkYKKeJg8fWmdbpIxJDHy8dzbuLaz2visY65gloGURLK1OL-wuDisYSy6YWYdo4k8SI1Kaj0VyN4fPcVZRu9VFLEM5qdjZqO1MBgfbSWn/s1600/blue_sweater.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBxeQIFhkUH7gG39t_Th8iBmyeMILopGQ72RRVkYKKeJg8fWmdbpIxJDHy8dzbuLaz2visY65gloGURLK1OL-wuDisYSy6YWYdo4k8SI1Kaj0VyN4fPcVZRu9VFLEM5qdjZqO1MBgfbSWn/s1600/blue_sweater.jpg" height="460" width="640" /></a></div>
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I used matching ribbing (all the starts aligned and I found matching ribbing!) and matched the pattern across the raglan seams. I wear it and I like it, but not as much as the purple version. in hindsight set-in sleeves could have been a better choice for this fabric. Also I'm freezing in this picture, it was taken during a snow day while I was sewing brocade <a href="http://shop.sewoverit.co.uk/products/ultimate-trousers" target="_blank">ultimate trousers </a>and wanted a picture to help me judge the fit. It's a story for another post though.</div>
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After experimenting with the raglan variation my verdict is - next time I'll use the <a href="http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/products/linden-sweatshirt" target="_blank">Linden pattern. </a>Jen is an alchemist when it comes to everyday clothes and I want to try her raglan pattern!</div>
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I did however tried another hack of the Strathcona. Using my raglan variation I wanted to make a bomber jacket. I had a blue version of the grey fabric in my first raglan try and floral neoprene in my stash, both perfect for this experiment. I hacked the raglan some more, and while both version are still in progress I think I'll like the end result:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTYaF0lYOtC_N5oqrXfGkmpzxUPvfmBXsN2X8aFcYV8kuDDilKfeEZFEzJl7zFPR2mF_vubTgOagBiupDWhyyRDUhNgJf5ZHjNbMLSmt8af1iIUSNjtCuDyYJive6SmvmdswtR9N_v3JSF/s1600/bomber_blue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTYaF0lYOtC_N5oqrXfGkmpzxUPvfmBXsN2X8aFcYV8kuDDilKfeEZFEzJl7zFPR2mF_vubTgOagBiupDWhyyRDUhNgJf5ZHjNbMLSmt8af1iIUSNjtCuDyYJive6SmvmdswtR9N_v3JSF/s1600/bomber_blue.jpg" height="640" width="552" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6xzkwkyiW9U9xxwaig6a1NAnZ0mR4d-x4dAjMprrtQTNUuQaPB35GqJy6bTtWbSKcUshFnC9C5UhC-1pTVff7KriGi4p-9raUdwUiSXyf9InySj-mph96Xswa5Gne7PwJoZxoF4YPzMN/s1600/flower_bomber.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6xzkwkyiW9U9xxwaig6a1NAnZ0mR4d-x4dAjMprrtQTNUuQaPB35GqJy6bTtWbSKcUshFnC9C5UhC-1pTVff7KriGi4p-9raUdwUiSXyf9InySj-mph96Xswa5Gne7PwJoZxoF4YPzMN/s1600/flower_bomber.jpg" height="640" width="600" /></a></div>
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both versions are worn here with <a href="http://gotopatterns.com/collections/go-to-patterns/products/go-to-knit-pants-for-women" target="_blank">go-to knit pants,</a> a pattern I'll review soon. In order to achieve better fit across the shoulders I added a shoulder dart, and narrowed the front some more. At this point there's barely any resemblance between the current pattern and the original Strathcona, I guess you can call it pattern evolution. </div>
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I'm stuck here, because I can't decide on the welt pockets placement. Additionally I want to draft the pocket bags in such a way they'll be caught in both the zipper seam and the bottom band seam. I still need to draft the facings and decide what to do with the lining. Both versions are stretchy, and I don't want the lining to compromise mobility. I think I'll do a partial lining - only line the body of the jacket and leave the sleeves un-lined. I'll add a pleat at the back to increase mobility. I'm in no rush, though, and don't mind having a few UFO's sitting around waiting for my mojo. I rather take my time than end up with a garment I'm not happy with. </div>
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The weather is colder than expected, but my sewing list includes a couple more versions of Strathcona with short sleeves and cuffs once I find fabric I like. I love everything about this pattern and am looking forward to future variations. </div>
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Please tell me I'm not alone here with my womenized Strathconas!</div>
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Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-54460443906771127952015-04-09T04:42:00.001-07:002015-04-09T11:31:45.586-07:00Fabric bowls for protecting your favorite pans<div style="text-align: justify;">
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I went all out with spring cleaning this year. As in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/The-Life-Changing-Magic-Tidying-Decluttering/dp/1607747308" target="_blank">Marie Kondo </a>spring cleaning. It was this huge snow ball, starting with the regular spring routine of going through my fabric scraps, cleaning the closets, unpacking summer clothes etc. And then I ran into her book during an Instagram break and all hell broke loose. Suddenly it hit me - I CAN get rid of all the STUFF I don't like. I don't have to keep it. </div>
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So I started raiding the closets, giving away most of the stuff I don't like just because I don't like it. It took me a few hours to realize most of the items I dislike were never chosen by me. Being the youngest child I always get hand-me-downs: bedding, kitchen stuff, clothes (!), and I have this voice telling me that if I already have something, it must be good enough, why should I replace it?</div>
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I agree with this voice most days, but this year I decided some things must be replaced. Starting small, I gave away the two frying pans we have, and replaced them with a good ceramic pan I wanted for the past 5 years. </div>
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Our storage solution for pots and pans is something like this:</div>
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We use(d) kitchen towels to protect the pans from scratches while they are crammed and stacked in our cupboards. I hate this solution, both because it's messy, and because I really like this owls towel and would like it to be used as a towel, not as a pan protector. So when we got this nice new ceramic pan I thought I could sew a fabric bowl to protect it, instead of this mess.</div>
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A short(ish) pinterest search led me to <a href="http://blog.imaginefabric.com/2009/04/how-to-make-fabric-bowl.html" target="_blank">this tutorial </a>from Imagine Fabric, showing how to quickly sew a fabric bowl. I created a "quilt sandwich" with two layers of fabric and cotton batting between them. I used the widest and shortest zigzag stitch for attaching the "petals".</div>
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My first go was for our wok, following the instructions as is:</div>
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While it undoubtedly looks better than the towel, it felt a bit sloppy and not sturdy enough. So for the next two bowls I free-motion quilted the layers before creating the 3D shape. I additionally bound the edges instead of using a zigzag stitch. I fought the desire to hand-stitch the binding, as with traditional quilting, convincing myself nobody will ever notice the visible stitches. </div>
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The bowels are sturdier and hold their shape well without being too stiff, so it's a win! </div>
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<b>Costs:</b></div>
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fabric: a present from a friend's mother</div>
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batting: 75 ILS for a meter, used about a 1/4m so, around 20 ILS (~5.08$)</div>
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thread: 1 spool, 3.8 ILS (~1$)</div>
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*I used an entire spool for the 3 bowels - quilting and tight zigzag stitching uses up a lot of thread.</div>
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<b>~24 ILS = ~6USD</b></div>
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<b> </b>Happy spring cleaning everyone! </div>
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btw - I know a lot of garment sewers don't do home-dec. I always hesitate before writing about home stuff as I do see myself as primarily a garment-sewer. However I do make everything for the home as well, and I find such projects refreshing and interesting when combined with more traditional garment sewing. I am planning a review on the go-to knit pants view B, a pattern I couldn't find a lot about, so stay tuned! (it will not take me 4 months, promise). <br />
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Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-85485740487218437362014-12-07T10:39:00.003-08:002014-12-07T13:23:42.162-08:00Newcastle cardigan for ME!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
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Hi all,</div>
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It's been a while...</div>
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Thing here are argg... complicated. The rain had washed away memories of war but the violence here hasn't stopped and it appears like difficult times are ahead. I must have started this post a million times but each time I feel like a party crusher, writing about the bad stuff in a community devoted to the beautiful parts of life. We don't get to choose our circumstances, and I have no control over other people's behavior, but I cannot ignore the reality, this simply isn't me, so here we are. Needless to say all the bad stuff happening around me kind of killed my mojo, and my thoughts were all over the place so I couldn't concentrate on sewing "appropriate" stuff. More specifically I couldn't even imagine sewing wovens, and I've already gone through most of the knits I had, so my choices were limited. I hate when this happens, especially when I really need to sew! Luckily I found the world's greatest and softest fabric (the fiber content of which is unknown, but it looks like wool from the outside, and is brushed from the inside). I made D a Necastle cardigan (in grey) from the same material last winter and he wears it all the time, it's soft and cozy and perfect for cold winter days. When I spotted the same material in one of the stores I bought enough for two cardigans, one for me and one for my dad (this will take some time, I'm putting off printing the pattern again and cutting a different size). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoMhyphenhyphen4TYV7EcuCTb0IGQJcUOgMFvi3lRP9Tu2tfaF1dIu1Jbc9iyhwCVTAlKmAq5ogocfIp9KBSRgjdlJZSlPc0vU8xXO44olgHurGcV6LQVl9qKj2W6IdkTPUlNvNdF6lVM0OzfcqzVbC/s1600/16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoMhyphenhyphen4TYV7EcuCTb0IGQJcUOgMFvi3lRP9Tu2tfaF1dIu1Jbc9iyhwCVTAlKmAq5ogocfIp9KBSRgjdlJZSlPc0vU8xXO44olgHurGcV6LQVl9qKj2W6IdkTPUlNvNdF6lVM0OzfcqzVbC/s1600/16.jpg" /></a><br />
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While this is undoubtedly a Newcastle cardigan In addition to the Newcastle pattern I also used the Strathcona pattern, a pattern <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2014/08/strathcona-t-shirt-for-me.html" target="_blank">I've used before</a>, as a template for the shoulders and sleeve seams. I figured it will be easier than messing around with sleeve curves, and will probably produce better results (as I know from trying on D's cardigan that the shoulders were too big but the side seams were fine considering this is a loose fitting cardigan anyway). </div>
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I placed both pattern pieces on the fabric, cut around the shoulders according to the Strathcona, and around the side seams according the the Newcastle pattern. </div>
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I wanted to do the same with the sleeves, I can't remember what went wrong but I must have made a mistake while cutting because the sleeves were up too narrow (and narrower than the original Newcastle pattern). Next time I'll know better...</div>
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Next I interfaced the required pieces. I don't know were I read about this technique, but for the interfacing instead of simply fusing it and then binding the exposed edges, I first sewed the fabric and interfacing right sides together:</div>
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Then turned them right side out and understitched to make sure the seam will roll towards the interfacing. </div>
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Then fused them together making sure the seam line rolls inwards.</div>
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The interfacing is completely invisible from the right side, with no exposed edges! </div>
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This fabric is extremely thick and the width of all layers at the shoulders is about 1.2 cm. After breaking two (!!) Bernina stretch needles I went back to a universal needle and it worked well for the remaining seams. I used stretch stitch on my regular machine and didn't use the overlocker. </div>
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I did the same with the previous cardigans and it adds some structure that I like on this type of a garment. </div>
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The last extra step was taking off about 0.125" around the undercolar, to account for turn of cloth.</div>
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While I put a lot of effort making sure the seam line will be invisible by understitched the undercollar as well as by trimming it, at the end I prefer wearing the cardigan with the collar up, so the understitching is visible but I'm sure nobody notices. I think next time I'll re-draft the collar for a properly standing collar.</div>
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Despite all the hiccups this cardigan is one of my favorite makes. The fabric is soft and cozy, the color is surprisingly flattering, and the slightly androgynous silhouette is right up alley. </div>
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The only thing that really bothers me is the fact the left front appears longer than the right front, even though they are exactly the same length! (the cuffs, however, are not even close to being the same size, I have no idea how this happened but after hand-stitching them I couldn't bother taking them apart. BTW I didn't use the Newcastle pattern for the cuffs so this mistake is totally my fault).</div>
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I have more of this material in dark grey, which will turn into another version of the cardigan someday soon. For the next make, I'm thinking of adding a curved band at the bottom to add length, a standing collar and... lining. I still need to figure this one out because while I don't need the stretch at the back, I do need it at the elbows. Suggestions? </div>
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<b>Costs:</b></div>
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fabric: ~two meters, 35 ILS per metter = 70 ILS (~17.6$)</div>
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two broken needles: 10 ILS (~2.5 $)</div>
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5 buttons: 4 ILS each, so 20 ILS total (~5 $)</div>
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thread: 3.8 ILS (~1$)</div>
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pattern (cost per make) : (that's a bit complicated, but:)</div>
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I bought the parkland PDF collection for 70 ILS (17.6 $). For this make I used 2 out of the 3 patterns, so it's 2/3*70 = 47 ISL (11.8$), but this is my 4th Newcastle and the 4th time I use the Strathcona, so I'll divide it by 8 to get: 5.9 ILS (~1.5$).</div>
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<b>Total cost: 109.7 ILS (27.6 $)</b></div>
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Money well spent :) </div>
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Happy sewing! </div>
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P.S. I thought long and hard about the entire Photoshop thing, and decided I will not edit my photos (apart from (strategically) cropping them). Since I don't have a camera all pictures are taken with my phone by D before I go to work, so this is as real as it gets :)</div>
Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-48037271991981694442014-11-04T22:46:00.003-08:002014-11-09T07:06:18.489-08:00Sewing "Chocolate" <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEhQwSRnVYBGpOK5oXCTx-AEeZkI-K20b_Vg-L-Jbg1nF8HJvhAU6MU_Ac3z-UCmg14oM0FvNRzV4sjM3tcWq3IpV1GetCOpt6ePSLrA9t7UakRJ96UKKS9MsuhqEbl4C9U9ekRHPGx63/s1600/chocolate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEhQwSRnVYBGpOK5oXCTx-AEeZkI-K20b_Vg-L-Jbg1nF8HJvhAU6MU_Ac3z-UCmg14oM0FvNRzV4sjM3tcWq3IpV1GetCOpt6ePSLrA9t7UakRJ96UKKS9MsuhqEbl4C9U9ekRHPGx63/s1600/chocolate.jpg" /></a></div>
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Well, this post could have also been named as "I have super powers!" but we'll get to that in a a few lines...</div>
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Last night I came home "a bit" frustrated from consecutive tough days at work. If you follow Erin's series on <a href="https://seamstresserin.com/tag/overeducated-seamstress/" target="_blank">graduate students</a> around the sewing community you are probably familiar with the fact graduate students are frustrated A LOT. I guess if you're human, and have a day job, you may also experience this frustration from time to time. Despite how much I love my job and how important I think it is, I can't avoid frustration when things just don't work.</div>
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Anyway, I came home and wasn't feeling like doing anything fun (or anything at all). I had about an hour before bed time and I felt like I didn't have the mental energy to start with the pants I've already cut, or cut another project. Looking around me my eyes fell on a scrap of knit fabric, left over from a long sleeve t-shirt I made over the weekend. Instead of shoving it into the (overflowing) scrap drawer I took out my undies pattern and made myself new undies from the scrap. </div>
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It made me feel better.</div>
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It took about an hour, during which I could clearly think about anything and everything. My first thought was it felt like I was sewing chocolate. You know, when in doubt - eat chocolate? So I did something else that made me feel better, took longer to complete than what it takes to eat some chocolate, and at the end I have a new pair of undies!</div>
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Then I thought that if I can just make myself a new pair of undies in under one hour, I must have super powers. It was not the first pair I made (though I changed a few things, detailed below), and I should make some more as my wardrobe still hasn't recovered from the lost luggage in Sicily a few months back. Yet the idea I can use some scraps and elastic and make myself a new pair of undies is not trivial. The fact we can sew our own clothes isn't trivial. It takes dedication and perseverance, and the strength to deal with frustration when things don't work. Just like in real like, only on a smaller scale. </div>
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Specifically, undies are important to me as I'm very particular about what I like to wear. I feel liberated that I can make it myself and I'm no longer depended on retailers, trends, and whatnot. </div>
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As for the actual sewing: Up until last night I always used fold-over elastic. I wanted to try something else, as the fold-over feels a bit to thick and stiff. This time I used decorative elastic for the waist and self fabric for the leg bands. The pattern is something I drafted from a favorite pair a while back. I used the overlocker for the 3(!) seams, and regular zigzag stitching to attach the elastic with a stretch needle. I prefer the result over the fold-over with 3-step zigzag. </div>
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Today is a new day, and I hope it'll be less frustrating. At least I now have new underwear to help me conquer the day!</div>
Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-1370524269100533832014-10-20T23:12:00.000-07:002014-10-20T23:12:58.921-07:00Internet and "on-line sewing"<div style="text-align: justify;">
I read Morgan's last post about <a href="http://threadtheoryblog.wordpress.com/2014/10/17/life-without-internet-sort-of/" target="_blank">her week without internet </a>with great interest. There are times in life when I would prefer to immerse myself in the fantasy world of the internet. Less than two months ago we've been through such a period of time during the war in Israel. Scrolling Instagram, reading blogs and collecting inspiration on Pinterest helped me disconnect for short periods of time from the awful painful reality of our being at that time. We were mostly cooped up in the apartment as missile alarms could go off at any time of the day, and while in our town it was relatively safe our families in other parts of the country had them several times a day. Looking at pictures of other people from the sewing community having normal daily fun and continuing with normal daily sewing activities helped me remember that this time will past and I, too, will able to go back to my normal life. </div>
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This advantage of the internet, helping us get inspired by looking at other people's daily activities, normal routines and achievements, is a complicated one. Of course this sort of inspiration is a good thing, but given the edited nature of the content we consume on the internet, instead of being inspired we can end up feeling bad with ourselves and with our seemingly less glorious lives. Looking at pictures taken at special fun moments may give us the illusion that every moment of every day may look like this for everybody else, while we're stuck in a relatively boring reality. This may result in disappointment with our own lives, even though we may subjectively enjoy it very much. </div>
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Another point is that by looking at what other people are sewing and being inspired by their choice of patterns and fabric, we may sometimes find ourselves wanting to make the exact same thing rather than choose our sewing projects in a way that is most suitable for our lives, workplace, and personal style. This may be especially more relevant nowadays as personal sewing blogs become more professional and photos are better directed and edited. Sometimes I find it hard to distinguish between genuinely liking a garment I see and being inspired to make it myself, as opposed to being attracted to the atmosphere the picture represents; usually this atmosphere has very little to do with the reality of life, and the garment plays only a small part of the scene. I interpret my immediate reaction to the photo as my wish to have the way of life portrayed in the picture. Usually the scene is calm, smooth, bright and peaceful, light-years away from my regular, normal, fun but un-glamorous life. Considering the time I have to spend on my hobby is limited, I would like to spend as much of it actually sewing but sometimes I feel so far away from the pretty peaceful lives portrayed in blogs, that it feels like sewing an actual garment will not bring me closer to experience something that beautiful.</div>
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However, the truth is that clothes don't REALLY matter, and having beautiful peaceful life has very little (if anything) to do with what we wear. I love clothes, I love sewing, I feel better with myself when I dress nicely, and I absolutely wouldn't trade the time I spend sewing for anything. But the reason I love my life is because I spend it doing what I enjoy and with people I love, and not because it's perfect. I don't live in pictures but in reality, and this is something I sometimes forget. </div>
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The problem is - I wouldn't be the sewist I am or the person I am today, if not for the internet. The inspiration and information is indispensable (not just for sewing, but in almost every area of my life) and therefore I can't and won't give it up. It is probably more like going on a diet - we all must eat, it's just a matter of quantity, quality, and the fact we shouldn't be controlled by it.</div>
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Consequently I've been trying to find a better balance between "online sewing" and real-life sewing. More importantly by making a conscience effort to be more aware of what I like and why I like certain types of inspiration, I'm trying to distinguish between patterns and garment that will go well with my everyday wardrobe, and those that are simply beautiful but probably will not fit in my life. </div>
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I hope that by doing so, as well as by managing my online sewing time better, I'll be able to create a happy functional wardrobe and lengthen my attention span so I'll be able to concentrate for longer periods of time on "real life stuff". Managing time is always a problem (especially for self-employed or those who have very little guidance from their supervisors at work!) and I hope the first steps I'm taking now will help me become better at this with time. </div>
Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3323562404881882612.post-63601559186122216072014-10-14T06:29:00.000-07:002014-10-16T11:28:06.259-07:00The Summer Dress - DONE!Hi all!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_gH9L7-en3vDvH1LGs_ZliKYJtPWNdIxXODeDoJysKefVE1c3LHPMyiQkhKP48g5k5mo1po2YIMYgAkNxOVDAqb1vMgZfWzRXn2hSCT-r4RmJcgZegKur20UKaFdz4wU0spygdrX-K9kn/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_gH9L7-en3vDvH1LGs_ZliKYJtPWNdIxXODeDoJysKefVE1c3LHPMyiQkhKP48g5k5mo1po2YIMYgAkNxOVDAqb1vMgZfWzRXn2hSCT-r4RmJcgZegKur20UKaFdz4wU0spygdrX-K9kn/s1600/1.jpg" /></a></div>
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We've just come back after marvelous ten days of hiking, driving, hiking some more and traveling the beautiful villages and cities of northern Greece. It's a bit difficult to return to "normal" life after a vacation, I enjoyed to peace and quite of just being the two of us together without all the "white noise" we all have in our lives. I missed the sewing machine, though. Before living I finished the quilt I've been working on since April and also made <a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2014/09/i-made-rug.html" target="_blank">the rug</a>, but I didn't hem the black Moss skirt and three Stratchona tshirts I made for myself (and took two of them with me to Greece, un-hemmed...). The night before our flight I also cut fabric for couch-cushions so I do have some WIP I can continue while I ease back into my daily routine. </div>
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One garment I manage to finish before our trip (hem included!) was the<a href="http://wardrobehistology.blogspot.co.il/2014/08/designing-knit-summer-dresses.html" target="_blank"> black knit summer dress</a> I started two months ago. Fortunately we had a few warmer days before the trip so I wore it a couple of times already, and enjoyed it very much. It was a long process even though it's such a simple dress, mostly because the fear of messing it up made me second guess myself every step of the way. </div>
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I used my self-hacked racer-back sports bra pattern as the base for the back. I used a different dress I have (RTW, almost never wear it) to estimate how much length I should add to the back and front pieces. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoUvA7Y0UPREr9R7KZJW5IkAizQ2wqwJvixgN_dO068hTPQkLvwQIi7QNu0rwY2aBlSQtON5Pk9GDGwdfvZRaT8SqepIKQsmOEdd1JEIPkZblAQQyzKJU_3Yn0SUd1221MycKFwzvgDNqY/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoUvA7Y0UPREr9R7KZJW5IkAizQ2wqwJvixgN_dO068hTPQkLvwQIi7QNu0rwY2aBlSQtON5Pk9GDGwdfvZRaT8SqepIKQsmOEdd1JEIPkZblAQQyzKJU_3Yn0SUd1221MycKFwzvgDNqY/s1600/5.jpg" /></a></div>
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In the above picture the original pattern is demonstrated with the length I added for both the front and the back pieces. The ~1" shorter back pieces is supposed to compensate for my sway-back (a problem I have with most commercial patterns). Since I could only estimate the different in length between the front and the back, and didn't know if I'd like the end result, I didn't trace the pattern and cut the fabric using the above pieces. It's a reciprocal process - I have to use the real fabric rather than start with a muslin because it's a knit fabric, but I feel like I can't cut into the real fabric before I'm sure my measurements are correct. At the end I just decided it would be "good enough for a first try" and cut the fabric. As planned I self-lined the bodice using <a href="http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/video-how-to-clean-finish-a-lined-armhole" target="_blank">Sarai's method</a>, just as I did with my sports bra. I cut the pieces for the lining a bit smaller all around hoping the smaller lining will make the seam-line roll inwards. The moment I tried on the bodice I realized how silly I was for procrastinating the project. The bodice fits well, I like it, the seam-lines mostly role inwards as I wanted. </div>
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After making the bodice I re-thought the skirt. Originally I planned using the Lady Skater skirt pieces but I didn't want to complicate things by trying to match the Lady Skater pieces with the waist line of "my pattern". Instead, I traced the general shape of an RTW skirt I have, assuming I could make it work (thankfully, knits are so forgiving!).</div>
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I added a lot of length to the skirt (at the end I cut 10 cm from the length I added), and make an FBA (=full butt adjustment) to the back piece, by adding more width and length to the center back. I didn't enclosed the waist seam between the bodice shell and lining as planned, as the bodice was a bit too short and I didn't want to risk it too much. </div>
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Initially I thought the bodice was about 2 inches too short; I felt the racer-back didn't balance the fuller skirt and that more length should be added to the bodice in order for the dress to have better proportions. After wearing it for a while though I started changing my mind. I think the quirky proportions work well for a summer dress, and I can also envision this silhouette in floral fabric with cooler colors for autumn (under a cardigan, maybe even a long one, with boots and leggings). I also have some sparkly black knit I would like to turn into a long sleeve version of this dress (like the Lady Skater, only with the fuller skirt I drafted), but I'm not sure if I can pull off the short bodice in a long-sleeve dress as well. Any suggestions? </div>
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Of course I procrastinated the hem for as long as I could. I started with a blind hem but 20 cm later I realized it was too weak for a dress I intend to wear often, and I was too lazy to continue. It took a few minutes with the tween needle to have a proper hem, and while it is not invisible I still prefer the more durable finish on a knit dress. Have your ever tried hemming a knit garment with a blind hem?</div>
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All in all i'm happy with this dress and think the silhouette it worth tracing the pattern and giving it another go.<br />
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<b>Costs:</b><br />
pattern: self-drafted<br />
fabric: 1.5 meters = 37.5 ISL = <b>10 $</b><br />
thread = ~2.5 shekels = <b>0.68 $</b><br />
<b>Total: 40 ISL = 10.68 $</b></div>
Roni Arbelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05462575382930834946noreply@blogger.com0